Girl power riding the waves: surfing tofino, canada

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In a country better known for its cold weather sports like hockey and skiing, Canada is not top of mind as a surf location. Yet it should be, given the miles of sandy surf-able beaches and world class waves found on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Surfing Tofino is world class.

Situated within Pacific Rim National Park, Long Beach, just south of Tofino, borders old growth forest, and stretches over 16 kilometers. Contained within and outside National Park boundaries, are multiple bays stretching from Tofino to Ucluelet. It’s like an endless Cali coast, minus a few degrees in temperature.

Surfing Tofino can be chilly in the winter

Tofino, is not the tropics of course. There’s a 20 degree Celsius water temperature difference between Tofino’s 9C (48F) and 29C (84F) in Tamarindo, Costa Rica during the winter. Even during summer, when water temperatures hit a balmy 15C (59F), surfers gear up in neoprene, albeit thinner than the winter variety. The only thing between you and the coast of Japan is a big body of water, working up a frothy set to repeatedly beat the sandy shore.

But could there be anything more outdoorsy Canadian sexy than surfing in a 5mm hooded wetsuit in the winter, complete with booties and gloves, and then finishing the day with a cold beer around a beach bonfire, sporting a toque? Forget the bikinis and beach bars.

Tofino may be a hardcore surfer pilgrimage, but 318,750 annual surf tourists willing to brave the cold, know the reward in surfing Tofino, a world class sandy surf break with consistent waves year round.

The democracy of cold water

While researching for this article, I found that Tofino has roughly equal male/female participation in surfing, while most tropical destinations remain male dominated. Why is that? Is it a Canadian thing?

What better way to explore this gender phenomena than planning a mother and daughter surf trip to Tofino, the weekend of Queen of the Peak, an annual women’s surf competition.

A mother & daughter surf trip to Tofino

Ever since hearing about Queen of the Peak, held at the end of September in Tofino, I’ve wanted to go. Witnessing empowered female athletes riding the waves in person with my adult daughter, was a last minute opportunity this year. With great excitement, Pat helped me pack up my old Toyota mini-van, which had been renamed “Donna” after a summer of hippy living while tree planting all over BC with my daughter. Donna, still sporting twinkle lights and an assortment of newly acquired bumper decals, became our make shift surf van for a Mom & daughter action packed surf weekend.

Pat had surfed a bit at Long Beach with friends during summer holidays as a kid, and on a couple University of Victoria surf club trips while living on Vancouver Island as a student. I had surfed in Central America with girlfriends and the Caribbean with my husband, but we had never actually surfed with each other. Surfing Tofino together promised to be fun, while exploring female surf culture.

Queen of the Peak: empowering women surfers

Queen of the Peak Women’s Surf Championships was created in 2010 by Surf Sister and Shelter Restaurant to celebrate and showcase the amazing surf talent on the west coast of Vancouver Island. The competition, now running 15 years, attracts not only local talent from Tofino and Ucluelet, but also women from Whistler and international competitors from California, Florida, Texas, Hawaii, Mexico and Costa Rica. The existence of a female only international surf competition in town, and a company like Surf Sister, specializing in introducing women to surfing, has certainly helped balance the scales of gender parity in surfing for this small Canadian town.

The two day Queen of the Peak contest features longboard, shortboard, and Princess of the Peak (for U18 surfers) divisions. The contest mission is to showcase and elevate the level of surfing in Canada, while also profiling what makes the surf scene in Tofino so unique. All the while it also inspires the next generation of female wave warriors.

Queen of the Peak Annual surf competition 2025

This year’s competition, held September 27-28, 2025 was to be held at Cox Bay, the expansive beach just outside Pacific Rim National Park. But due to high wind and rain, the location was switched to North Chesterman this year.  

Surf judging

After watching the competition, and listening to the announcers, we were curious how judging works. I interviewed Tiffany Olsen, General Manager at Surf Sisters, who generously helped clarify. She noted that competition runs in 20 minute heats, with 4 competitors trying to ride their best waves and dazzle the judges with moves during that time. Surfers wear different coloured shirts for identification, and are scored out of 10 for each wave they ride.

Longboard

In longboard surfing, judges look for wave choice, entry, speed, power, overall flow, degree of difficulty, and critical maneuvers such as hang 5 (toes of one foot over head of board) and hang 10 (both feet at head of board), cross steps, and where on the wave all of these are executed.

“The subjectivity involved seems a bit like judging figure skating,” I joked as we chatted. Tiffany assured me that judging was very professional. “Numbers are awarded from all four judges, then averaged to get the final score for a wave ride. Surfers then take the total of their best two scores from the heat, and the top two surfers advance to the next round,” Tiffany said. 

Shortboard

Shortboard surfing is judged on movement on the face of the wave, and movement from top to the bottom of the wave, while being mindful of wave choice, entry, speed, power, overall flow, degree of difficulty, and critical maneuvers on the short board. The tally of points, and advancement to the next round is similar to the longboard format.

Rain didn’t dampen spirits in 2025

Sunday September 28, 2025 was a soggy day for spectators watching the finals after qualifying the previous day, but that didn’t dampen the enthusiasm. Both days were live streamed for those unable to attend – and a few of us who snuck off to get warmed up from the comfort of our motel room!

Spectators watch Queen of the Peak

Check out final standings here, including longboard, shortboard, masters and the Princess of the Peak U18 results.  https://www.queenofthepeak.com/past-results Notably Ocea Green from Tofino finished second in shortboard, and fourth in longboard amidst a field of international competitors.

Inspired: surfing the waves of Tofino

Watching these world class women surf, we were inspired to ride the waves the next day ourselves. Surfing longboards on the whitewater primarily, we were hardly competition grade, but my daughter landed a few cross steps, and in my mind I rode waves epically longer than their realistic short execution.

Florencia Bay

After our first “atmospheric river” of the season on Sunday, we got lucky with a dry, partially sunny day Monday. Although there are numerous great beaches to surf both inside and outside Pacific Rim National Park, we chose Florencia Bay, for its promised waves and good conditions with a flooding tide.

Pat had suggested we use the Surfline App to monitor wind, tide, swell and real-time surf conditions. It was excellent.

Florencia Beach, named for the brigantine Florencia, which wrecked off Vancouver Island in 1861, is also known as “Flo” by locals. It has a longer walk in than North Chesterman’s or Cox Bay. The stairs to the beach would have been easier to navigate with shortboards, rather than our 8ft board, and the 9ft rental, but the extra effort also meant Florencia was much less crowded, and not a location easily used for lessons.

Parking and Park Passes

Of note for those surfing Tofino within Pacific Rim National Park, you will need to purchase a parks pass and display it when leaving a car in the park. Passes can be purchased at the visitor center. If you will be staying multiple days or apt to go to other national parks in Canada, an Annual Parks Canada Pass is likely the best bet. Check out this link to review pass options: https://parks.canada.ca/voyage-travel/admission  North Chesterman and Cox beaches are outside park boundaries, and don’t require a pass, however they do have paid hourly and day rate parking.

Ucluelet Aquarium: a great side trip when surfing Tofino

Ucluelet is about 40km south of Tofino. We had heard about the unique “catch and release” aquarium there, and we were both excited to check it out. Truly, it is worth the visit!

The Ucluelet Aquarium was the first in Canada where fish and sea species are caught and displayed only temporarily, then released back to the location they were harvested from later in the year. Most species stay February to December.

Philip Bruedin started the Ucluelet Aquarium in 2004, and it was moved to a larger site, its current ocean side building, in 2012. The Ucluelet Aquarium brings underwater life to those who may never dive beneath the surface, and it adds a whole new dimension to visiting the area. There’s something about curious rockfish staring you down, and watching sea urchins work their magic that will leave you filled with wonder.

Tofino Brewing – a perfect end of daY celebration

After our tour around Ucluelet and the aquarium, we headed back to Tofino Brewing at the end of the day for a beer flight, and a take home 4-pack, that would taste even better after a hot shower to shake out the salty surf hair.

Cox BaY Beach

Although we didn’t plan to surf the following day, we checked out Cox Bay surf conditions – for our next trip. Seems this Mom/daughter surf thing might become an annual event. Cox Bay is a great surf location, offering both challenging conditions by the rock breaks, and more gentle conditions by the sand break, an area often used by Surf Sister and Pacific Surf Co for lessons.

The flat boardwalk walk in was also much shorter and easy to navigate compared to Florencia Bay.

Surfing Tofino map guide

Cox Bay, Chesterman Beach and MacKenzie Beach are all outside of Pacific Rim National Park. Other beaches such as Long Beach and Florencia are within park boundaries.

Where to rent gear and get lessons in Tofino

There are a number of companies in town offering lessons and rentals. Some accommodations like Pacific Sands also work directly with surf instruction companies like Surf Sister. We recommend Pacific Surf Co, Surf Sister, and Live to Surf.

Pacific Surf Co

Pacific Surf Co is in the main center of Tofino. It’s also right across from Rhino Café, which is super convenient if you want to get your rentals sorted, then pick up a coffee and breakfast without moving the car. Pacific Surf Co has a van that takes surf boards and gear to various beaches, depending on the weather, to meet up with folks who have signed up for day lessons too. Learn more on their site: https://pacificsurfschool.com/ (441 Campbell St, Tofino)

Surf Sister

Surf Sister is on the outskirts of town, on the way to Tofino Brewery. Although Surf Sister was founded on empowering women to surf, they offer lessons and rentals to everyone. And like Pacific Surf Co, have vans to deliver boards and gear to the beach to meet up for lessons.

If you’re female and want a women only learning experience, Surf Sister is the OG place in Tofino to learn to surf. Frankly their presence and stoke, has likely gone a long way to contributing to the gender parity of female surfing in Tofino. Learn more on their site: https://www.surfsister.com/ (625 Campbell St, Tofino)

Surf Sister also hosts warm weather surf holidays to Panama and El Salvador, with their local female surf instructors. Their surf camps are for beginners and intermediate, ages 30-70. Surf Sisters selects remote beach locations, with the best conditions and safety in mind, and they work with local guides for excursions. Learn more about these trips: https://finisterra.ca/el-salvador-surf-yoga-retreat/

Live to Surf

Live to Surf is the original surf shop in Tofino, a pioneer at the time when established in 1984, when the local surf scene was just emerging. This shop offers surf gear and lessons for all abilities. They’re located south of town, across from the Tofican Café, a very popular artisan bake shop. Check out their site: https://www.livetosurf.com/ (1180 Pacific Rim Hwy, Tofino)

Where to eat and drink in Tofino

I knew my daughter would know all the best places to eat and drink in town, having spent time in Tofino with friends. She did not disappoint. These recommendations are all officially Gen Z daughter and Gen X Mom approved.

Rhino Coffee House

The Rhino Coffee House has legendary donuts and breakfast sandwiches. In fact, my breakfast sandwich was so hearty, that I saved a 1/3 for later. It was a welcome treat back at the van after a morning of surfing!

Judging by the morning crowds, lots of people in town figure their coffee and donuts are pretty fine too. Even if you’re not surfing, the Rhino Café is a great place to feel the vibe of Tofino. Check out their site: https://rhinocoffeehouse.com/ (430 Campbell St, Tofino)

Tofician Café

The Tofician Café is a great little artisan style bakery café. If you’re into having a muffin as a meal, try their over sized sweet savory pepper cornmeal muffin. Pat also raved about the sausage rolls. Great coffees, chill vibe, very popular. Check out their site: https://www.tofitian.com/ (1180 BC-4, Tofino)

Tacofino

No visit to Tofino is complete without stopping at Tacofino, the original food truck in town, and according to my Gen Z daughter and all her university friends, Tacofino has THE BEST tacos. Check out their site https://www.tacofino.com/location/tofino-original-truck (1184 Pacific Rim Hwy, Tofino)

Tofino Brewing Company

I knew I could count on Pat to sniff out a good brew pub. Tofino Brewing Company is a great local brewery, just on the outskirts of town. It’s a hopping place after a day surfing, with lots of local brews on tap. Be sure to wear a toque. Seriously, unless it’s a hot summer day, that’s the vibe for the indoor seating, with open air concept garage doors off the back, and patio for overflow.

They have a great selection of small batch craft beers. We recommend ordering a flight, and then grabbing a 4-pack of your favourites (photo: Mark McKeongh) You can mix and match, so you don’t need to sweat getting it down to just a single brew. Check out their site: https://tofinobrewingco.com/ (691 Industrial Way, Tofino)

Where to stay

Accommodation options in Tofino range from camping, to low/med/high end hotels.

Camping options

There are several private campground option in Tofino. Both Bella Pacifica and Surf Grove have sites by the beach, and options for tenting, van camping, and RVs. Bella Pacifica campground is open on a seasonal basis, so be sure to check their site for dates, if you want to visit during shoulder season. Surf Grove is open year round, and the only campground located on Cox Bay Beach. Check their sites for facilities, rates and booking.

Bella Pacifica https://bellapacifica.com/

Surf Grove https://surfgrove.com/

Low budget

Looking to save on accommodations, but not into camping? Consider Whalers Guest House. They have both hostel style dorms, as well as budget priced rooms.

Whalers Guest House

Hostel style dorms, couples and family rooms too.

Lower mid-range

Despite Donna’s legendary status as a great surf van that hauled all our gear, the prospect of camping on a rainy long weekend with wet surf gear, was not on the table. But finding a place last minute with the Queen of the Peak surf competition in town, wasn’t easy either. However, I managed to grab a reasonably priced room at the Schooner Motel.

The Schooner Motel

Think Motel 6 but without the updates. When ever I stay in an older motel property, I always think “weren’t buying the place”. Sometimes it’s about location and price. And on surf competition weekends – availability!

The Schooner Motel is centrally located in Tofino, an easy walking distance from restaurants and the local Coop grocery store. The Coop across the street also has a pretty decent hot food deli if you’re not into going out. While the Schooner is solidly an older style motel, it had a few great features: kettle and fridge in the room, plus access to cooking facilities in a shared space on the ground floor, that also had a wood stove.

Our room had an electric fireplace which sounded appealing when I booked, but it didn’t throw much heat. However, the traditional style base board heaters with accessible temperature control, were amazing to be able to crank the heat and dry out our gear. That alone, was worth the booking for a wet weekend stay! The motel also has a shared access coin clothes dryer. You’re likely detecting a pattern here – be prepared for rain in Tofino during the shoulder and winter seasons. Beds at the Schooner were comfortable if you like them firm, the room was quiet, and the price was right!

Tofino Resort and Marina

Right in town, reasonably priced, 63 guest rooms with marina views and balconies. The reviews look promising, and the location is good.

Upper mid-range

When you don’t need luxury, but you don’t want to stay somewhere a bit worn out and old, upper-mid range is perfect, and the Hotel Zed is a great hotel. While I haven’t stayed at the Tofino property, I have stayed at other Hotel Zed locations.

Hotel Zed Tofino

Hotel Zed properties are updated, quirky and fun places to stay. The Tofino location is a new addition to the hotel’s properties located elsewhere in Victoria and Kelowna BC. Hotel Zed is essentially everything an old style motel property isn’t, except they’ve taken retro and made it cool. Think rotary dial phones and record turn tables, meet modern sophisticated design and comfort with flat screen TVs and speedy WIFI. While the Tofino location doesn’t have a Zedinator water slide pool entry from the second floor like their Victoria property does, every Hotel Zed oozes with a sense of funky fun. Not to be missed is the replica VW surf van, made entirely out of local drift wood on display out front.

Luxury waterfront

If you’re going to baton down the hatches to storm watch, walk the beach and go out for a few fine meals, pampering yourself with some luxury in the accommodation department is a must. May we suggest the Pacific Sands? Enjoy a hot tub by the ocean, and book a beach front room with a view. Pacific Sands is right on Cox Bay, enabling you to watch surfers all day, if you don’t care to ride a wave yourself.

Pacific Sands Beach Resort

Upscale, beachfront and on Cox Bay. Seriously, maybe it’s time to treat yourself! Pacific Sands Beach Resort is beautiful, and in a stunning location.

Pacific Sands fronts on Cox Bay

Tofino accommodation guide

Of course there are many accommodation in the area beyond these recommendations, including private rentals. Use this map guide if you prefer to search for other options.

Beyond surfing Tofino

There’s lots to do in Tofino, beyond just surfing. Sea kayaking, whale watching, or visiting an island hot springs by boat are all amazing options. So is just walking on the endless miles of beaches in the area, dining on local seafood, or checking out the craft brewery scene.

If you’re visiting between November and March, storm watching is a huge thing! Yes, people come from all over the world to witness the power of a Pacific storm pound the west coast of Vancouver Island. Bring your rain gear, waterproof boots and a taste for adventure. If you book a waterfront hotel like Pacific Sands Beach Resort, you’ll have a front row seat for all the powerful action – from the warmth of your dry hotel room!

Check out these guided tour options for Tofino!

• Whale watching
• Bear watching and wildlife tour
• Clayoquot Sound kayak tour
• Hot Springs Cove tour
• Floating sauna and boat tour

Did we discover why surfing gender parity bucks the trend in Tofino with so many female surfers? We certainly learned how local businesses and the annual Queen of the Peak women’s surf competition contribute. But there’s also something distinctive about Canadian women embracing the chilly waters of the Pacific North West as true wave warriors. We’ve now joined their club.