Kayaking Espiritu Santo Island, camping & hiking Baja Mexico: a women’s adventure getaway

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Kayaking Espiritu Santo Island, plus camping & hiking Baja Mexico is the ultimate women’s adventure get-away.

Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium.” UNESCO made Espiritu Santo Island a World Heritage Site. And yet, many people fly straight over it on their way to Cabo, never knowing that three hours north, blue-footed boobies – birds most people travel to Ecuador to see – are nesting on rust-red cliffs above a sea full of sea lions, manta rays and migrating grey whales. Espiritu Santo archipelago is one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations in the Western Hemisphere, experienced best from the seat of a kayak, camping on empty beaches, under ink-black skies.

Serendipity in the Baja

Last month serendipity tapped me on the shoulder and I said yes to joining a group of ladies I didn’t know, to spend a week on a Wild Women Expeditions tour kayaking Espiritu Santo Island, in Baja California Sur, Mexico. Although I was new to the group as a last minute replacement, we all shared a similar age and a love of the outdoors and adventure.

Together we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, hiked and camped in the Santa Rita Canyon, swam in waterfalls and bathed in natural hot springs by a full moon in Sierra de La Laguna, skinny dipped, went whale watching on the Pacific coast out of Puerto Chale, observed seal pups with their Mommas, snorkelled and swam with sea lions, kayaked, camped, and gazed at the dark sky stars from a beach in the Sea of Cortez.

Espiritu Santo Island: the Galapagos of Mexico

The Espiritu Santo Island area of Baja, known as the “Galapagos of Mexico” for its diverse marine ecology, pristine water and sandy beaches void of inhabitants, did not disappoint. Spotting some Blue Footed Boobie birds, a rarity outside the Galapagos, the same day we witnessed manta rays leaping from the sea as we paddled by, solidified that Galapagos promise.

It’s hard to convey how special this area of the southern Baja is, but experiencing it through remote land and sea locations, in a small group, with local guides is ideal. And let’s just say, if you’re looking for an authentic women’s adventure getaway, this trip was the opposite of lounging by the pool at a Mexican resort, the fate of thousands just three hours away in Cabo.

Kayaking Espiritu Santo Island on a women’s adventure getaway

Our eight day Baja kayaking adventure promised an active adventure to feel the spirit of the Baja. Booked through Wild Women Expeditions, and delivered by local tour operator Indomito 360, kayaking Espiritu Santo Island, plus camping and hiking in Baja Mexico was the ultimate women’s adventure getaway.

While weather conditions may alter the order of these days activities, this is what you can expect exploring Espiritu Santo Island and beyond on a Baja kayaking adventure.

Day #1 kayaking espiritu santo island

Day one began with a flight to San Jose del Cabo and check in at our hotel prior to the tour beginning the following day. We had time for dinner out and a fun photo opp in Cabo that evening

While bad decisions may make better stories, the great decision to join this fun group of gals would make for the best stories!

Day #2 kayaking espiritu santo island

After breakfast we walked the beach in Cabo before our tour pick up. Having never been to Cabo before, it was fun to see what makes this resort town attractive to so many.

Departing Cabo, our group drove two hours north towards Santiago and the Canyon del Zorro, in Sierra de La Laguna National Park. That’s where we learned that the danger of cows crossing the road was real in Mexico!

Crossing the Tropic of Cancer

A quick stop for a little geography lesson as we crossed the Tropic of Cancer!

Siera de La Laguna National Park

Our first stop was hiking into Cascada Sol de Mayo (Fox Canyon Waterfall) to a 40ft waterfalls, and swimming pond beneath the falls. The hike in over dry parched land, rocks, cactus and thorny bushes was rewarded with what initially appeared like an oasis – a waterfall and aqua blue pond, surrounded by palm trees.

Fox Canyon Waterfalls

But the oasis, appearing plucked out of a story book, was real – the water cool and refreshing. If you’ve never had a Thai style “fish pedicure” the Fox Canyon Waterfalls is a great place to sample the experience naturally. If you pause long enough standing on the bottom, little fish will nibble at your ankles!   

After the hike back out we drove to our campsite for the night, in Santa Rita Canyon, after a stop at Rancho Eco Lodge Sol de Mayo for lunch.

Setting up tents like a bunch of kids away at camp, we worked in pairs to assemble and locate our beds for the night – inflated Thermo-rest pads and sleeping bags.

Our guides prepared dinner that evening on an open grill. It set the stage for campfire conversation, and illuminated faces gathered in a circle, bonded in new found friendship.  

Since the Santa Rita Canyon contains natural hot springs, we checked out the pools located just down from our campsite later in the evening, before retiring to bed. Hot springs by the full moon, after a day hiking, swimming and exploring with a group of gal pals. Could it get any better?

Day #3 kayaking espiritu santo island

We woke to roosters at sunrise, but a welcome alarm clock to catch a glimpse of the full moon as it dipped the horizon. We discovered that evenings in the Baja can be cool, especially if there is a mountain breeze, so the sleeping bags that appeared overkill initially were welcome – even to a bunch of naturally overheated women north of 50! But it gave us another reason to seek out a morning hot springs soak before breakfast.

Our bonds of female chatter, evident as we approached the pools, broke the silence of a couple intent on creating their own isolated spiritual moment. Comments made were no match for a good humoured Scot in our group through! And it eased the shared environment for others in the pool at that time. It would be one of many stories we’d share during the trip!

Mapping the journey

After breakfast our guide set out some maps of the areas we would be exploring in the Baja during our trip. It was great to get a perspective on the regions we would cover.

Hot springs skinny dip

After we packed our tents and gear, and prepared a packed lunch for a hike to another more isolated hot springs with our female guides. There, void of other visitors, we decided to skinny dip. You could feel the judgement and societal body image expectations women often wear as armour peel away, replaced by trust, friendship and comradery as we laughed and frolicked together like kids, comfortable with the bodies carved by six decades on this earth. It would be one of many unique empowering moments on our all-female tour. 

Whale Watching in Puerto Chale

After returning to camp and packing up, it was off to Puerto Chale for some whale watching.

Puerto Chale is a small village on the Pacific coast of the southern Baja, the departure site for whale watching tours in Bahia Almejas (Clam Bay). A premier spot for whale watching in Baja California Sur, it is known for its calm lagoons, and as a destination for migrating grey whales.

Whale watching in Mexico is unlike whale watching in the Pacific North West, where boat traffic and distance is heavily scrutinized, so initially I was a bit alarmed at the experience with multiple boats and close proximity to the whales.

Spy hopping Whales

Only 20 boats are licensed to take tourists out of Puerto Chale, which represents a significant reduction to what was allowed in the past, in an effort to be more eco-tourism conscious. And limits were placed on boats, restricting them to 150 meters from the whales, but it seemed the quest to please photo hungry tourists pursuing “spy hopping”, where a whale surfaces vertically, were pinching those limits.   

Witnessing the whale migration

Grey whales are 49 feet (15 meters) long and weight 80,000lbs (36,000kg). That’s a lot of presence, especially witnessed when whales spy hop to have a look around. Our boat tour out of Puerto Chale allowed us to see some of the 83 whales estimated to be in this area of the Baja, migrating to the Bering Sea from January – April. These whales were in the Baja for mating, breeding and giving birth, so it was a lively place to witness Grey whales in the wild.

We learned that single males leave first in March/April to migrate north, while those pregnant, or Moms with a baby whale, stay in the Baja longer, until April/May – when the baby whale is strong enough to swim north.

But whales encounter challenges on their migration route we learned. Monterey Bay, California, is often where baby whales fall prey to killer whales. Only 25% of young whales make it to the Pacific North West during migration. While Orca killer whales are present in the Baja, but they don’t come into the protected Clam Bay area just off Puerto Chale, because of the single shallow and narrow entrance/exit.

Grey Whales return to the Baja in mid/late December. The babies stay with Moms for seven months up north, then migrate back on their own to the Baja.

Whale population in decline

We also learned that the population of Grey Whales is decreasing. In 2015 there were an estimated 25,000 which have decreased to 14,000 by 2025. The presence of less food seems at the root of the decline, the result of global warming causing less ice and water freezing, producing less algae, and lower numbers of sea life that feeds on it.

Experiencing whale watching in Mexico is enlightening from an ecological perspective. The country has made strides to shift towards a more sustainable approach to tourism in this area, but the decline in whales is further evidence of more work required to preserve these magical creatures.

La Paz

After whale watching, we headed to La Paz for the night, to check into our hotel, followed by a walk along the waterfront, and dinner out hosted on the grounds of Indomito 360, our local tour company, in La Paz.

A dinner with the owners of Indomito 360

Our dinner that night was as guests with the owners of Indomito 360 – Diego Cervantes and his fiancé Alejandra Gomezugarte at their business compound just off the La Paz waterfront. There, they had set up a private outdoor table, lights and music in a private setting to serve us a wonderfully prepared local chef’s meal. Alejandra is a chef deserving of her own restaurant, so it was a real treat to be hosted in this way.

Since taking over the company two years ago, and rebranding it as Indomito 360, both Diego and Alejandra spoke enthusiastically about expanding market offerings through tour companies like Wild Women Expeditions, and Black Feather, as well as their own direct tours to a growing market locally and in Canada, the US and Europe. They also hope to develop culinary tours, both through their own offerings and teaming up with local farms and ranches in the Baja.

Day #4 kayaking espiritu santo island

This would be the day where we’d begin to experience kayaking in the Espiritu Santo Island area, which started with a 1.5 hour boat ride from La Paz.

Espiritu Santo Island is designated a National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site. There, in the Espiritu Santo Islands, we set up camp for the night on the empty beach of La Parteda Island.

We helped load the boat with kayaks, camping gear, food and snorkeling equipment, plus the 20L dry bags we were given the evening before to provision for the kayaking and camping portion of the trip. Our other luggage was dropped at Indomito’s office for storage that morning, before setting off in the boat.

The ride out over the Sea of Cortez was scenic through unpopulated islands, most appearing as mountainous red rock cliffs, parch dry with the exception of green cactus in coloured contrast. It was a striking site against the deep blue sky and the translucent aqua blue Sea of Cortez water.

Insinata Grande Trail

Our guides set up camp and we set up our tents, which would be home for the next two days. After lunch, it was off on a hike to the other side of the island via the Insinata Grande Trail. We were all avid hikers at home, but for the sparsely marked trails in Mexico, we were happy to have our guide Patty leading the way.

Scrambling over rocks and boulders, through dry red rock terrain, with the odd cactus, kept us on our toes. More challenging hikes are possible if all group members are willing and able.

A few boats anchored in the bay overnight, and one day trip boat from La Paz came ashore briefly. Other than that, we had the place to ourselves for the next two days.

Camping on Espiritu Santo Island

Camp was comfortable with tarped shade and chairs, and watching pelicans dive bomb for fish in the bay was vastly more entertaining than scrolling a social media feed – which thankfully wasn’t even available, due to our remote location. We enjoyed being disconnected while kayaking Espiritu Santo Island – a rarity these days.

A swim in the warm translucent blue Sea of Cortez topped off our sweaty hike. And the portable solar shower bag, by then hung and warm, provided just enough fresh water to freshen up, but remind us we were a long way from Mexico resorts.

After dinner it was time to enjoy the immensity of the dark sky and stars, another rarity in our often urban environments. Taken together with a total disconnect from the internet, it a time to appreciate our peaceful place in the universe – tent camping in the Baja.

Day #5 kayaking espiritu santo island

This would be our second day and overnight camping on La Parteda Island. After breakfast, we took the power boat out to a small island around the corner from our bay, called Los Eslotes. There we would witness sea lion pups and their mommas up close. After scouting the island shoreline from the boat, we anchored, which offered an opportunity to snorkel in the area. If was fascinating to observe the underwater sea life – fish, starfish and coral, plus the playful sea lions, gracefully moving from land to water swimming with joyful curiosity – us watching them, them watching us.

Sea Lions

We learned that sea lions spend 70% of their time out of water, mostly sunning themselves on rocks, and unlike seals, they have front flippers to assist with swimming and land maneuvers. Apparently, sea lions recognize the wave length of each other’s barks, so when a Mom leaves the rookery, she’ll return to her pup’s barks.

One of the best memories of the trip was watching sea lions play under the water and dance above it, flipping through the air and circling back through the sea. During one exchange, a sea lion looked at me square in the eye, up close from the shore, then glanced away, and back again repeatedly – like a labradoodle, guilty of getting into the groceries! Inquisitive and lacking fear, sea lions are very different from their skittish seal cousins.

Snorkeling with sea lions

Back at the camp we grabbed lunch, then headed out for a sea kayaking orientation, paddling for 1.5 hours out of the bay towards the sea lion rookery. On our way back we saw a whale jumping and a pod of manta ray leaping from the water in a large pack.

Sunset, dinner, stars and conversation rounded out the evening again, as we shared stories and a reflection on the full day of adventure.

Day #6 kayaking espiritu santo island

After breakfast, we broke up camp and packed our tents and gear onto the boat to head to Candelevo Beach on Espirto Santo Island. Our boat took the camp items to set up ahead of time, and we would arrive later that morning by kayak, to set up our tents at the second camp.

Camping on Espirto Santo Island requires a permit, which our guides had arranged. Permits prohibit campers from staying longer than two nights at any location. There also seems an unwritten rule that if a beach is being used by a group, that others will not set up camp overnight. This seems to work well along with the restricted permit process, largely acquired through guiding companies. You might see some use of beaches by day tours from La Paz, or accessed by anchored yachts coming ashore, but the permit system certainly limited human impact on Espirto Santo Island.

We paddled as a group to our next beach and camp, then after lunch embarked on the boat again for more snorkeling off La Ballena Island, by a shelf with coral and abundant fish and sea life.

The pattern of sunset, dinner, stars and conversation at days end had become part of life. We savoured it once again during our last starlit night in the Baja.

Day #7 kayaking espiritu santo island

We broke camp from Candelero Beach after breakfast on day seven. Once again, the boat took our gear, and we paddled to the next beach for lunch. Along the way we viewed a bird sanctuary with a frigate bird colony situated in a former pearl farm along rocky cliffs of an island.

We also saw a flock of Blue Footed Boobie birds, which were stunning. Sharing a similar latitude and ecological environment, the Espiritu Santo Island area of Mexico is one of the only places the bird is found, outside the Galapagos.

Prior to lunch, we stopped at a coral beach where our guide Patty read us a poem called “Sea Glass”, by Bernadette Noll. It was a poem about aging gracefully and the journey that is life.

We stood on that coral beach, in the Sea of Cortez, waves lapping the shore, water aqua translucent, the sky forever blue, and the rocky islands a rusty burnt umber dashed with the occasional green cactus, we reflected on the poems meaning. A spiritual moment of reflection, the words rang true for us all, searching for insight into the next phase of life over 50. I’ve shared the poem below.

Sea Glass

I want to age like sea glass. Smoothed by the tides, not broken. I want the currents of life to toss me around, shake me up and leave me feeling washed clean. I want my hard edges to soften as the years pass – made not weak but supple, and I want to ride the waves, go with the flow, feel the impact of the surging tides rolling in and out.

When I am thrown against the shore and caught between the rocks and a hard place, I want to rest there until I can find the strength to do what is next. Not stuck – just waiting, pondering, feeling what it feels like to pause. And when I am ready, I will catch a wave and let it carry me along to the next place I am supposed to be.

I want to be picked up on occasion by an unsuspecting soul and carried along – just for the connection, just for the sake of appreciation and wonder. And with each encounter, new possibilities of collaboration are presented, and new ideas are born.

I want to age like sea glass so that when people see the old woman I’ll become, they’ll embrace all that I am. They’ll marvel at my exquisite nature, hold me gently in their hands and be awed by my well-earned patina. Neither flashy nor dull, just a perfect luster. And they’ll wonder, if just for a second, what it is exactly I am made of and how I got to this very here and now. And we’ll both feel lucky to be in that perfectly right place at that profoundly right time.

I want to age like sea glass. I want to enjoy the journey and let me preciousness be, no in spite of the impacts of life, but because of them.

El Corraleto Beach

We later paddled to meet our boat and lunch set up on El Corraleto beach, an area shared by La Paz day trip touring boats. It was a little jarring to see other boat traffic, after having had Espiritu Santo Island largely to ourselves. The Sea of Cortez is beautiful regardless, so we savoured lunch and one last swim before the return boat trip to La Paz.

A return to La Paz

After checking in at our hotel back in La Paz, followed by some serious clean-up to remove salt and sand from every crevice, we met for celebratory happy hour drinks on the rooftop deck, followed by dinner out in the city with our guide.

Day #8 kayaking espiritu santo island

The final day of the tour was a departure from La Paz, and return shuttle for the group back to Cabo, via the Pacific coast, to catch afternoon flights home.

I chose to stay on in La Paz, explore the city further, do some sketching, since I planned to pick up a rental car later in the afternoon, and drive to La Ventana for week two of my Baja Mexico adventure. Check out this article “Things to do in La Ventana, Baja Mexico (beyond kiteboarding)”

La Paz Marceon Plaza

The La Paz Marceon Plaza is a city park and gathering area along the city waterfront. I chose it as a fitting end to my time in La Paz – a way to observe intently through sketching, while becoming fully aware of life around me. For an hour I enjoyed drawing the plaza, with palms in the background, the boardwalk, buildings and restaurants reseeding into the hills at a distance.

Sketching slows observation down long enough to notice all the senses beyond just what is seen. It’s not like taking a quick photo.

I heard the ocean lap the shore in repeated waves, palms blowing above me in the wind, music from cars and restaurants along the esplanade, as locals enjoyed morning in the city. The sound of families chatting in Spanish, birds chirping in the garden, church bells in the distance – reminding me it was Sunday morning, and the sound of a child on roller blades circling her Mom behind me. I could smell the air, taste it almost – a mix of salt, and the sweetness of flowers in bloom, mixed with sunscreen on my body, ever present. Beneath, I could feel the wood lined park bench, and from above the heat of the sun when it hit the side of my face, through blown palms breaking the shade. 

I love taking photos on a trip. But I treasure building in time to press pause and sketch, and preserve a small snapshot that triggers all the sweet memories preserved through the senses.

About the tour operator

This trip was booked through Wild Women Expeditions, and delivered by Indomito 360 locally in the Baja. Wild Women Expeditions specializes exclusively in female only tours. Indomito does mixed gender tours, but partners as a supplier to Wild Women to deliver their women only tours, utilizing their local female guides.

Wild Women Expeditions

Founded in 1991, Wild Women Expeditions https://wildwomenexpeditions.com/  is a Canadian-owned, women only, adventure travel company designed to empower women through immersive experiences in the outdoors. While the company originally focused on kayaking and canoe trips in Ontario, they have expanded globally to offer expeditions to 36 different countries around the world. The business has been able to scale quickly, by using on the ground local suppliers to deliver their programs.

With an emphasis on socially responsible travel that contributes to sustainable communities, Wild Women Expeditions works with female guides and women owned or managed businesses at the local level to deliver tour experiences.  

Indomito 360

Our trip in the Baja was delivered on the ground by a La Paz based local company, Indomito 360, https://www.indomito360.com/en/ Formerly known as Baja Outdoor Activites, the company was established in 1994 to focus on remote sea kayaking adventures. Sharing a similar low-impact, sustainable tourism approach as Wild Women Expeditions, local female guides lead our adventure.

Kayaking Espiritu Santo Island TOURS

Explore tours of the southern Baja and Espiritu Santo below. I have added Intrepid Travel as an option, since they run a similar trip in the area covered by this article. I have had past experience with Intrepid, and can attest that they are a reputable and well-run company.

Wild Women Expeditions

Baja kayaking adventure – 8 days (group size 6-16) female only

Indomito360

Espiritu Santo circumnavigation – 9 days (group size 1-12)

Escape to Espirito Santo – 4 days (group size 1-12)

Intrepid Travel

Mexico’s Baja peninsula: hike, bike and kayak – 7 days (group size 1-12)

DAY TRIPS

If a week long commitment is more than you’re looking for, but you’d like to sample some of the experiences noted in this article, check out these day trip options if you are staying in La Paz or Los Cabos.

Espiritu Santo day trips from La Paz

Snorkeling, whale watching, sea lion adventure, day trips from La Paz

Kayak tours day trips from Los Cabos

FAQs:

Is Wild Women Expeditions worth it? As a tour company catering exclusively to women, they make it easy to organize and execute a kayaking trip in the Baja. They work with local tour companies to execute on the ground, which could be a cheaper option to book direct. But they offer peace of mind as a Canadian company operating in over 36 countries, and make the trip seamless.

What is the best time to see grey whales in Baja California? During migration mid-December to March/April

Can you kayak and camp at Espiritu Santo Island? Yes, but camping overnight requires a permit. Permit stays are limited to two nights per location, and available primarily through local tour companies. Accessing Espiritu Santo Island from La Paz is also much easier with a tour company boat to get you out to the islands, especially if it is windy or rough.

What marine life can you see in the Sea of Cortez? Grey whales, orcas, manta ray, sea lions, countless tropical fish, coral, starfish and birds. The blue footed boobie bird is found there, one of the only places outside the Galapagos to spot them.

Are there women-only adventure tours in Mexico? Yes. Wild Women Expeditions specializes in women only groups with female guides. Other private operators like Indomito 360 and Intrepid Travel will organize a custom group for you if you meet their minimum of six people for a group.

What is the Galapagos of Mexico? The Espiritu Santo Island area of the Baja, on the Sea of Cortez, is referred to as the Galapagos of Mexico, since it shares a similar ecological profile. It is also one of the only places outside of the Galapagos in Ecuador, where you can spot a blue footed boobie bird.