Saturnia Hot spring in Tuscany: how to avoid crowds

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You’ve likely seen Saturnia Hot Springs in Tuscany on Instagram. The image seemingly plucked from a fairytale appears the recipient of heavy editing. Saturnia Hot Springs is where you’ll find mineral rich turquoise thermal pools flowing over smooth, volcanic rock, in the middle of the rolling hills of Tuscany. The serene setting seems serial, but it is 100% real and natural.

Visuals of Saturnia Hot Springs are frequently captured by influencers, oftentimes with a drone. A solo traveler looking serene, back usually to the camera, implying that the absence of others, is normal.

Rest assured dear reader, that photo is not normal. (And the water is an amazing blue, but it’s not THAT blue!) The location is absolutely real, but unfortunately the absence of crowds is not. Keep reading, we’ve got the inside scoop on when to go and everything you need to know to make your visit to Saturnia Hot Springs memorable.

History of Hot Springs in Tuscany

Saturnia Hot Springs, known as Cascate del Mulino di Saturnia by the Italians, are the most famous natural hot springs in Tuscany, an area known for abundant thermal activity. Although the hot springs present like a gentle waterfall, they are made of numerous natural pools of warm thermal water. According to Medieval legend, the springs were created at the exact point where Jupiter’s thunderbolt fell in a battle against Saturn. The scars left by the thunderbolt created Cascate del Mulino. The Romans believed the sulfurous waters were a gift from God, and that bathing in Saturnia Hot Springs offered healing powers. To this day, many locals flock to the hot springs for their believed health benefits.

Where is Saturnia Hot Springs?

Saturnia Hot Springs are located 5 minutes from the town of Saturnia, half way between Rome and Florence, and a little south of Siena, in the Province of Grosseto, Italy. The springs are a long drive from tourist destinations like Florence though (195km, 3 hours away) and Rome (150km, 2.25 hours away). But if you’re already in the Tuscany or Southern Coast of Maremma region, be sure to make time for a visit. Or plan on making this a must see destination (a better idea!)

Fire up Google Maps and plug in Saturnia Hot Springs. If you get lost and you’re close, just show a local the towel around your neck, and they’ll likely set you straight.

5 Tips for when to visit Saturnia Hot Springs

Avoiding the crowds at Saturnia Hot Springs is the name of the game. But with the springs being open year round and 24 hours a day, there are many options.

1. Shoulder season is less busy. While locals flock to the hot spring year round, tourists tend to visit in the peak of summer. So by visiting in the fall, winter or spring, you increase the likelihood of less traffic. That said, peak season stretches from May to November.

2. Early morning is less busy. Visiting early morning is not only less busy, it is actually more pleasant. Since the waters are a little warmer than body temperature at 38c, it is more enjoyable to bath and relax when the air is cooler. Plus early morning makes for spectacular photos with the waters mist rising from the pools. For the best photos, grab a distant shot from above on the drive in, then snap away while there. Baking in the midday sun from above surrounded by hot thermal water should be avoided anyway. Plus, arriving early makes parking and showering afterwards easy and quick.

4. Midweek is less busy than weekends. The hot springs are usually busier on the weekends, when day tripping Italians visit.

5. Come late at night, but avoid a full moon. It’s possible to avoid some of the crowds by visiting in the late evening or at night under a starry sky, since the springs are open 24 hours/day. But be sure to check the lunar schedule, since more crowds gather during a full moon. But seriously – full moon sounds pretty spectacular for this setting. I’d go anyway!

Bottom line on avoiding crowds

Come mid-week and during the winter or early spring for the fewest crowds.And visit during the early morning or at sunrise, for even greater chances of having this treasured space to yourself.

However, if you can’t avoid the busy times, you can still enjoy your visit as long as you adjust your expectations. Sharing a pool is not all that bad, and it can be a great way to engage conversation with a local or fellow visiting traveler. You might have to wait in line for a shower, bus seriously, you’re at Saturnia Hot Springs, in the middle of Tuscany, Italy. Let that sink in, and chill out!

Parking

Since Saturnia Hot Springs are out of town, unless you’re staying close by, you’ll likely be arriving by car. Be careful to park in the designated parking lot about 1km from the springs. There’s a separate walking path from the lot. Parking is paid, but not expensive at 5 euro/day. Navigating the written instructions in Italian at the parking meter will test your language skills, or ask a local to help you with the prompts on when to enter your credit card. Most are happy to help.

You’ll see “no parking” and “do not enter” signs on the small road in front of the springs. While you may be tempted to park in this area, since there are some cars authorized to be there – don’t do it! Local police do give out tickets, and that’s not something you want attached to your rental car agreement. If you have young kids or people who are less able to walk from the parking lot, you can always drop them at the gate first, then go park.

Saturnia Hot Springs are free!

A precious gift from the earth, Tuscany has many natural springs. Most are part of private spas, established in ancient times in towns throughout the region. The majority of these have paid entrance, or are attached to private facilities. But a few remain free and open to the public – Saturnia Hot Springs being one of them.

Showers & toilets

You will likely want to shower afterwards, since being left to smell like a rotten egg all day is the alternative. It is a thermal pool after all! So plan on bringing cash to purchase a shower token from the machine or at the concession. At the time of writing, tokens were 1 Euro for a 2 minute shower. Toilets and diaper change tables are also easily accessed from the shower area.

What to bring

A waterproof bag for your camera or cell phone is recommended, since you’re going to want to photograph the experience. Also take a waterproof bag to tuck away your wet towel and bathing suit afterwards. Although there are change rooms, it’s easiest to wear your suit underneath clothes when you arrive and go straight to the pools, then change up after your shower at departure.

Water shoes are also useful, since the rock can be slippery in places, and the fine small pebble rocks within the pools can be a challenge to navigate with tender feet. There is a concession and grill, but it’s cheaper to take your own water and picnic snack, and there are no rules against doing so. One challenge is keeping an eye on your bags on shore as you bathe in the pools.

Checklist of items:

• Towel
• Bathing suit
• Beach blanket to sit on
• Hat, sunscreen and sunglasses
• Water
• Water shoes
• Cell phone or camera + waterproof case
• Plastic bags (zip lock bags for anything you don’t want wet – like car keys or cell phone, and an additional one to contain your wet bathing suit after bathing)
• Coins or small bills to purchase locker and shower token
• Snack
• Beach bag to contain it all (with compartment for a small amount of cash and car keys)

Secure valuables

Do not take any valuables to be left unattended. Ideally travel in a group where one person can keep an eye on your belongings while others are in the pools. There are lockers at the café next to the hot springs. Prices are 5 euros for a small locker, or 7 euros for a larger one. Both require a 5 euro deposit. I’d suggest not bringing valuables with you. You should also be careful to lock your car in the parking lot. While thefts are uncommon, it is a public space, and the area where you have available to leave your belongings while bathing is limited and accessible to anyone.

A few cautions

We were cautioned to not enter the pools with open cuts. This makes sense given the natural untreated state of the water, and the frequent use by many. But I also noticed small micro water worms on one occasion. Not a big deal since I had no open wounds, but I did note to self – perhaps you shouldn’t let water in your mouth, and you might want to reconsider immersing your head!

We also saw lots of kids, and infants in the pools, plus the occasional well behaved dog. Just know you’re entering a beautiful, but fully natural hot springs, in a family friendly, anything goes Italian town. Don’t expect chlorinated pristine conditions and go with the flow! It truly is an enjoyable and unique experience.

I’d also suggest NOT bringing your favorite bathing suit, since the thermal pool water could cause some lightening discoloration, and the rotten egg sulfur smell could linger until properly washed out with soap.

Consider alternative hot springs

If you get to Saturnia Hot Springs and it’s too busy, you can also head 2km up the road towards the village of Saturnia, to visit Terme di Saturnia, the paid public thermal baths. There is a daily entrance fee, and you must rent a robe and slippers (or have packed your own).

Bagni di Petriolo is another hot springs in Tuscany. Pools are layered in a similar fashion to Saturnia Hot Springs, but the benefit there is you can cool off in the cold water river. However, don’t expect a luxurious, photogenic hot springs experience. Facilities are basic, and parking can be a hassle. The Petriolo springs also run hotter at 40-43 Celsius, versus 37-38 Celsius at Saturnia.

Bagni di Petriolo hot springs are less well known to international visitors, being a bit off the beaten path in southern Tuscany. It is located half way between Siena and Grosetto on the SS223. But if you’re looking for an authentic free alternative, not necessarily the sweeping storybook photo opportunity, you might want to consider Petriolo.

Where to stay

The Southern Coast and Maremma is known as Tuscany’s undiscovered corner, a largely flat area with few low hills, and capped by crumbling ancient hill towns such as Sorano and Pitigliano. Grosseto, Sovana and Saturnia are all towns or hamlets in the region. Check out accommodation options in the area here:

Hot tip

If you stay overnight nearby, it will make planning to visit the hot springs at sunrise easier. Staying near the town of Saturnia or the Tuscan countryside town of Poggio Murella, would be a good bet. The town of Manciano is also about 15 minutes drive away. Not only will you get a head start to the springs, but you can soak up the regions Tuscan charm and chill pace of life!   

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