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We first cycled Corsica Island, in our 20s. One of the eighteen regions of France, this large mountainous Mediterranean island, southeast of the French mainland, was our honeymoon destination. Back then we toured the entire perimeter on road bikes, with the conquering attitude of youth.
Mary & Chris Charleson, September 1991, south of Calvi, on the west coast of Corsica
In September 2024, thirty-three years later, we returned to Corsica Island with technology on our side. This time we sported E-bikes, phone app route maps with GPS tracking, and accommodation booked at days end that put the memories of pre-internet searching for a vacant B&B, or a place to pitch a tent, firmly in the rear-view mirror.
Mary & Chris Charleson, September 2024, Belgodere, west coast of Corsica
UTracks organized our one-week self-guided cycling tour of Corsica Island. Our independent trip option included pre-booked accommodations and route map options, but required us to carry our own gear. We loved the independence to plan our days without a tour group to be accommodated, while knowing we had detailed maps, sightseeing guidance and local tips, plus mechanical support if needed, and a safe and comfortable place to sleep at night.
It turns out that 33 years later, age taught us to appreciate Corsica with a more curious, less conquering attitude. The journey presented a mirror to a mature relationship, one that understands that the real gems worth exploring are often found within.
This UTracks self-guided Corsica cycling trip comprehensive overview includes a day by day itinerary, destination guide, area history and travel tips, plus photos, maps and video. Get ready to experience authentic Corsica on two wheels. Some sweat may be required!
Day 1: Arrive in Bastia
Technically day 1 of the UTracks self-guided cycling tour of Corsica is spent as a day touring around Bastia. Most guests, especially from abroad, will arrive the previous day, to catch up on jet lag and be well rested for the bike trip. Bikes and twin panier luggage are delivered either late afternoon this day, or the following morning, before starting the ride.
The additional day in Bastia at the beginning of the trip provides an excellent opportunity to tour around and get an understanding of some of the underpinnings of Corsica’s complex history, which will help with interpretive sites encountered cycle touring.
Bastia
Much of the keys to Corsican history is contained within the Mediterranean city of Bastia.
Bastia was built on the site of an ancient Roman city called Mantina (or Mantinum). Following the fall of the Roman Empire, the inhabitants of the ancient Roman ports abandoned the shores of the sea to find refuge in the impenetrable maquis of the hinterland and in the mountains of the interior. The Bastia site was deserted and it was only at the end of the 14th century, when Corsica was under the sovereignty of the Republic of Genoa, that a real urban structure was redrawn.
Bastia is now Corsica’s commercial capital, with an upbeat big-city feel compared to Ajaccio. Since Genoese times, its nucleus has been a picturesque quarter of ramshackle old tenements, with buttressed walls and cobbled alleyways radiating from the harbor. The twin bell towers of St Jean Baptiste church are the town’s emblematic landmark. Behind the Vieux Port, an amphitheater of high-rise suburbs look out to the sea. A constant flow of ferries reminds you that Italy is just across the water, and its influence over Bastia’s culture is ubiquitous.
Hotel Le Bastia
We stayed at the Hotel Le Bastia, situated up the hill and overlooking the city. We also returned to this hotel at the end of the tour, since we had plans to catch an early morning ferry to Livorno, Italy the following day. UTracks can easily accommodate guests requiring transport back to Bastia, as well as those who may wish to depart directly from the last hotel to the airport, which is quite close by.
So, come along for the ride through Corsica Island with us, and take a deep dive into experiencing the trip day by day in this article.
UTracks self-guided Corsica Island bike tour map
Curious to do your own self guided cycling tour of Corsica? Get more information from UTracks here, and check out date availability and prices.
Check out this Corsica Island Cycling Adventure tour video!
Cycling Day 1: Bastia to Albo
I was worried that my husband, who commuted by road bike to work for years, would view e-bikes as a compromise. But that fear was put to rest on day one, when I rounded a corner to witness him off his bike, clearly in pain, walking off leg muscle cramps.
Heading out of Bastia towards Brando
More photos along the east coast of Cape Corse
We had been ascending multiple switch backs heading inland toward Pinto after our morning ride up the east coast of Cape Corse from Bastia. It was then that we both acknowledged the first days 70km through mountainous regions justified the trip’s 5/5 difficulty rating.
E-bikes: an epidural for cycling!
Even with e-bike pedal assist, which I referred to as “an epidural for cycling”, we were still putting out the effort and hauling gear. It just didn’t hurt as much.
Leaving the east coast of Cape Corse, towards interior and west coast of the Cape
After Pinto, we climbed further to Canara, before descending to the lower village at Albo, our destination for the night.
The pass at Pinto
Once we hit the pass at Pinto it was a glorious switch back decent to Minervio. The ride along the cape’s west coast, framed by a coastline of crashing aqua-blue seas, remote beaches, and a road clinging to cliffs, with an endless vista of coastal mountains, was the Corsica of my memories from 33 years ago. “OMG, we actually made it back” I quietly mused, as I effortlessly glided along the Cape’s coastal road.
Along west coast of Cape Corse
Stopping for water and wine at a west coast cafe
Not a bad view!
Our route then took us inland to Conchiglio and another climb to Canari before descending to our destination for the night in Albo, a small town, home to D’Albo black pebble beach, marina, and Genoese tower ruins.
East coast of the cape
Earlier in the day, we had seen our first Genoese tower, Torra d’Erbalung, dating from the 16th century, in the fishing village of Brando, 10km north of Bastia. The village harbor, stone houses and pedestrian streets of the old town were alive with locals and travelers, many vying for cappuccinos and chocolate croissants at the local street bakery. Lined up locals was a solid indication we should stop, so we joined them.
The self-paced nature of a UTracks cycling tour allowed for stops like this to immerse ourselves in local life. Later that morning we would picnic by the beach in Marine de Porticriolo.
West coast of the cape
We’d also learn about the church of Santa Maria Assunta from the 12th century when we passed through Canari on the west coast, in addition to the asbestos deposit discovered in 1898, which lead to the large coastal asbestos factory, later closed in 1965 for health and environmental reasons.
After spotting several Genoese towers on the cape cycling our first day, we learned that about 60 of the 85 towers that the Genoese built in Corsica in the 16th century remain standing today – many is various states of preservation. The motive for constructing the towers was to protect the island from Berber raiders, but they certainly also helped protect the commercial interests in Corsica from European challengers. Sited around the coastline, each visible from the next, they formed a surveillance network, enabling signals to circle the island in one hour.
Our UTracks navigation app not only provided route tracking, it also incorporated notes and history for the areas we passed through, which we loved.
Decomissioned asbestos plant, Canari, west coast Cape Corse
Approaching Albo pebble beach, Albo, west coast Cape Corse
That night, after watching the sunset and searching for heart shaped rocks on Albo’s pebble beach, because it was a 33rd anniversary after all, we dined and partied in the street with parents and kids, in an open-air festivity of live music, celebrating the local men’s football team win.
Our accommodation that night was at Hotel Saint-Roch, a modern boutique style hotel in town, offering a fabulous buffet breakfast the following morning. All I could think while sinking into a luxurious bed after having had a nice hot shower earlier was – “this is a definite upgrade from when we stayed in our 20s!”
Hotel Saint-Roch, Albo
Cycling Day 2: Albo to Saint Florent
Our destination on day two was Saint Florent, but we were given options for 24km or 42km to get there. That was a feature we really appreciated with UTracks route planning. There were options that allowed for less strenuous days if you wished to take it easy or start a little later. Mind you, we seldom did. We were all in for the full adventure!
So, day 2 feeling bullish and rested from our first day, we opted for the longer route. It was still considerably shorter than our first day though, at 42km.
Mausoleums
Going towards Nonza we saw several mausoleums belonging to Corsican families along the road. We remember seeing countless mausoleums before, but what struck me was how they continued to be well attended, with current notes, photos or candles celebrating loved ones who had passed. It was a unique view into the Corsican culture that honors the strength of family, and ties to Corsica Island. We would continue to see many more family memorials during our journey.
Mausoleum in Farinole, Corsica
In Nonza, we learned that the Nonza tower was built under the orders of Pasquale Paoli in 1760, with the purpose of monitoring the Gulf of Saint-Florent. Legend has it that in 1764, when French troops captured Corsican troops, and an injured soldier remained alone in the Paoline tower. By shouting orders in the tower, and thanks to a system of strings that allowed him to fire several weapons at the same time, he made the French troops believe there was a strong resistance of many forces, and they accept surrender.
Nonza, overlooking coast
Cathedral in Nonza
Wine country
After Nonza we continued on the mountainside road, heading inland, entering vineyard fields around Patrimonio. Cork oak trees lined the roads as we cycled through this region. Although the practice of using real cork for wines is now on the decline, the bark scars on many of the trees was evidence of its popularity in the past. The proximity of the trees to Corsica’s wineries no doubt helped increase cork use.
Cork tree, Farinole
Farinol-Bracolaccia
The Patrimonio region is a mecca for viticulture in Corsica. Its vineyards, which stretch between Saint-Florent and the beginning of the Cap Corse, were the first to receive the Appellation d’Origine Controlee in Corsica. Every November 11th, the church in town celebrates the feast of Saint Martin, patron saint of winegrowers.
Col de Teghine mountain pass
After Patrimonio, we began our ascent to Col de Teghine mountain pass, at 536 meters. On a clear day, the Col de Teghime offers a view of both coasts of Corsica, with Bastia and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the east, Saint-Florent, the Agriates desert and the Mediterranean Sea to the west. In 1943, during the liberation of Bastia, the Goumiers, Moroccan members of the African army, fought against the Germans, who surrendered the pass after two days fighting. It was a reminder how Germany’s war efforts had extended beyond mainland Europe during WWII.
Col de Teghine Pass, incoming clouds!
Weather can change quickly in Corsica’s mountain ranges, a fact we were reminded of as clouds and wind replacing sun, cut our picnic lunch at the pass short.
A huge decent to the valley rewarded us with warmth and sun again, making the winding trail of small rural roads through more vineyards, as we headed towards Saint-Florent a delight. Along the way we stopped to see this ancient chapel from the 16th century.
Route des Vins
Poggio-d’Oletta wineries in valley, mountain pass we cycled in distance
Saint Florent
We arrived in time to explore Saint Florent, located in the heart of a magnificent bay surrounded by the Cape and Nebbiu mountains. The Saint Florent harbor was full of yachts and buzzing with pedestrian’s along its seawall of cafes and restaurants. It was just a short walk from Hotel Bellevue Saint-Florent, where we stayed that night.
Saint Florent harbor
The next morning, Saint Florent harbor, what a difference a day makes!
After exploring late afternoon, the evening brought showers which altered our plans to return to town after a relaxing swim at Belvedere’s pool overlooking the ocean. But having picked up some local wine at a vineyard during the day, as well as an assortment of cheeses and charcuterie, made it easy to listen to the tap, tap, tap of the rain on our French door shutters, as we settled in to an early evening.
Belvedere Hotel
Pool oceanside
Room and ground floor patio
Gardens, view from room, private patio
Curious to do your own self guided cycling tour of Corsica? Get more information from UTracks here, and check out date availability and prices.
Cycling Day 3: Saint-Florent to Menticello
Our UTracks route app offered options for a 54km, 68km or 84km day on day 3. Feeling increasingly strong, rested and keen to experience as much as possible, we opted for the 84km day.
The next morning it was back to sunny skies. Day 3 would see us off through the Agriates desert, ascending the road out of Saint-Florent, and then a false flat rising along the open road. The area offered little shade, so we left early enough to get some distance in prior to midday sun.
Saint Florent coast in background, leaving town
We packed lots of water this day. We knew the intensity of sun, altitude and wind would be tough climbing to yet another pass. I’m not sure if it was the e-bikes, our fitness, or both, but we were definitely feeling stronger each day.
Despite having trained, and being otherwise active, navigating mountains and passes on Corsica Island would be a challenge for anyone, regardless of age, on a regular road bike. I remember returning from our first trip over three decades ago with thighs of steel.
Agriates desert
The panorama from the road crossing the Agriates desert was magnificent over the 16,000-hectare area of dense and fragrant maquis and rock.
It’s hard to believe this area was once Genoa’s breadbasket. Right up until the 20th century livestock grazed and there were olive groves similar to Balagne villages. But the area was devastated by fires and prevailing winds, turning the once fertile soil into a stony, barren dessert.
We also stopped to pick up fig and raisin homemade spreads and honey at a local shop. All items were made locally in the area, so we added them to our picnic food stash in the paniers.
Coming out of Saint Florent, we were passed repeatedly by groups of 50cc scooter riders in yellow shirts. They were part of a “Moto Corsica” tour out of Saint Florent. The riders, led by the tour guide sporting an inflatable flamingo water toy around his waist, were obviously having a lot of fun together. But their presence, in addition to us on bikes, no doubt provided an additional challenge for the cars behind.
We noticed more traffic on this route across the Agriates general, including camper vans and touring motorcyclists from mainland Europe. But the scooters thinned out within 20km of Saint Florent. They were no doubt on a day trip from the city.
The Desert of the Agriates is a desert in name only. The whole area is covered with Mediterranean vegetation typical of the maquis: holm oak, olive trees, myrtle, heather and strawberry trees. Hills and rocks are common, and dwellings are rare. Although we spotted an old van which was likely on the road back in 1991 when we were last here!
Donkeys and old cars
Another mountain pass: Sierra di Pigno
Just beyond the pass, the descent towards the west coast was magnificent. The pass itself was incredibly windy, so we didn’t spare much time there beyond snapping a photo.
The ride from the pass down the other side was fast and fun – until something made a huge noise and flew off my bike. Evidently my panier had hit a reflector on the rear wheel, but it was a lesson in trying to figure out where to safely pull over on such a tight curving stretch of road.
Lozari beach
We stopped at Lozari, a beautiful beach on the coast, for a picnic lunch, wine and to dip our toes in the ocean. Prior to arriving there, we spotted a stretch of the old highway far below, which we were certain would have been part of our original journey. This reinforced our observation that many of the roads on Corsica had been upgraded along the coast since we last visited.
Old coastal highway, this section no longer in use
Lozari beach was a sunny, but windy with sizeable crashing waves. We took our tip from the locals who weren’t swimming, likely due to a rip tide, and instead watched windsurfers and kite boarders just off shore.
Riding towards Lozari Beach
It was then off to another assent, through several small mountain villages, before climbing to Monticello, a quaint old town in the hills, overlooking L’Ile Rouse.
Ambling interior roads with rock fences in area of Speloncato
Monticello
Perched at an altitude of 218 meters, the heart of the village of Monticello’s is an ancient building, grouped around its early 17th century parish church of San Sebastieanu, and separated by narrow streets and vaulted passages under some houses. In 1541, Monticello was raided and burnt down by Barbarians led by the Turkish admiral Drugut.
Village of Monticello
In 1758, Pasquale Paoli decided to equip Corsica with a port in the north-west of the island, was given part of Monticello, in order to build L’lle Rousse. The church of Saint-Francois-Xavier is located prominently in the south-east part of the village. It’s dome, dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, are classified as Historic Monuments, by decree in 1992.
We toured around Monticello, sipped wine in a café and sketched – a luxury of time that I was determined to allow for during our Europe trip this time. Then it was off to check into our hotel, La Bergerie, our accommodation for the next two nights. Fortunately, La Bergerie was a gentle roll down the hill towards L’Ile Rousse, a nice way to wrap up the day.
L’lle Rousse (the Pink Island) port and city, viewed from up the hill.
La Bergerie
La Bergerie is a very unique property, built around rocks and olive trees – some between 1500 and 2000 years old. The properties restaurant, also called La Bergerie, is a fabulous restaurant for dinner, with meals served within the natural olive tree canopy, outdoor garden setting.
2,000 year old olive tree
La Bergerie grounds, pool
La Bergerie restaurant
Later we toured around L’lle-Rousse, and relived memories by the towns pier, where we had visited 33 years ago. We were able to walk down from our hotel to town, and enjoyed a fabulous wood fired pizza and wine, as we had done so many years ago, and reminisced.
L’Ile Rousse, waterfront and pier
Town square, nice to see that bocce still gathers friends every evening
Cycling Day 4: Loop Monticello
Day 4 was an 85km loop tour beginning and ending in Monticello, allowing us to tour the area, while leaving most of our gear at the hotel, except for what we wanted during the day.
Freed of some weight, we tacked on an additional 10km, seeking out area roads towards Calvi, in a bid to retrace some of the route we covered 33 years earlier. We knew that much of the UTracks self-guided tour of Corsica was exposing us to new areas on the island, so but we were keen to explore where possible, some of our original trips trail.
Modified route for memories
The route suggested the day start with riding down the hill to L’lle Rousse to explore the port, and then ride the two loops in a counter clockwise direction. Since we had already spent the previous evening in L’lle Rousse, we decided to do the route clockwise. This afforded us the ability to ride the Calvi to L’lle-Rousse section of the coastal highway in the direction we had on our trip 33 years previous.
We started from Monticello, and got about half way on the first loop, but didn’t go all around the lake reservoir. Instead, we mixed the route with a longer route towards Calvi via the higher hills, valley wineries and olive tree route.
Avapessa, from Monticello to valley wine region
Winery and olive routes
We followed the “route de vin” and the “route de h’oile” much of the way too, which was lovely, offering opportunity to see the various wineries in the region, as well as olive oil farms. The roads were not busy, with much of the journey under the canopy of old olive trees suspended over the road, offering shade.
The exact route was Montecello on D63 down into the valley, where we followed the Fiume di Regina river towards the water reservoir lake on D113. Rather than continuing the lake loop shorter route on D113, we continued straight on D13, and merged with D71 at Muro. We continued to Murato along the top of the mountain ridge through the town of Avapessa to San Cesareo, then D151 to Montemaggiore.
We elected to not detour to the town of Feliceto before continuing on to Muro, simply because we knew our day would be full with our plans to revisit some coastal locations between Calvi and L’Ile Rousse. However, we did enjoy touring through the wine region of Feliceto.
Feliceto wine region
Sant’Antonio, valley and wineries
Feliceto is a small village of little more than 200 inhabitants in Balagne, just next to the Regional Natural Park of Corsica. The town is in the heart of the Corsican wine appellation Calvi and on the route of the AOC Corican-Calvi Wine Route. Famous throughout the island, the Feliceto glass factory is known for the incredible color of its glasses. The town also has three old grain mills, a beautiful Genoese bridge and working oil mills, for the olive harvest.
High ridge road through Montegrosso
Quiet roads in Montegrosso
Looking out over the gulf and Calvi
Montemaggiore
After ascending to the top of the ridge past Murato and Avapessa, it was a beautiful ride towards Montemaggiore, offering distant mountain views to the east, and magnificent coastal valley views out towards the gulf.
Montenaggiore village
Montenaggiore is beautiful old village containing charming alleys adorned with old houses and carved doors. Saint Augustin parish, a 16th Century Baroque church dominated the skyline with its bell tower. The village, set high on the hill with a backdrop of the Montegrossu mountains, offered stunning views out towards Calvi.
We then set off down the hill on D451 towards the ocean and Gulfe de Calvi, passing the military base, before heading north along the coast towards Lumio.
Algajoi beach
We detoured again by staying on T30 and not taking D71 wine tour noted on the route map, wanting to visit Algajoi, a beach town by San Damiano, which we thought we remembered from our previous trip. The beach town had of course grown considerably since then, but we stopped to dip our toes in the Mediterranean and enjoy the white sand beach and big crashing waves. Then it was T30 all the way into Fogata and then L’lle Rousse.
The freedom to choose
The UTracks route app is topographically detailed with elevation gains and all local roads. It allowed us to customize route suggestions by day four. We likely wouldn’t have done this if not for wanting to re-trace some of our original coastal route which we cycled in our 20s. The suggested routes on the app are well thought out to avoided heavy traffic and expose cyclists to a unique side of Corsica.
It was a lovely days mix of valley touring through wine country and olive groves, culminating in a spectacular mountain ridge ride overlooking the ocean and valley to one side and mountains to the other, and a final decent back towards the coast.
Daily picnics roadside
In what was now a daily ritual, we had picked up a fresh baguette in the morning, and packed along a variety of cheeses, charcuterie, fruit, nuts and wine for a picnic lunch roadside, under an olive tree, with a coastal view.
If you’re a foodie you will delight in all the flavours and textures of Corsican cheeses. In Corsica, charcuterie has been elevated to an art form. The finest Corsican charcuterie derives its flavour from the pigs diet of acorns and chestnuts. Cured meats are on offer at pretty much every grocery.
The only regret in altering our route was missing out on visiting the village of Sant Antonino, a medieval town, classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. The town was founded in the 9th century and was used as a refuge and defense during Moorish invasions.
The town layout spirals like a snail, with 75 houses separated by cobble stone streets and arched galleries, all forming a downward spiral. Our Lady of Lavasina chapel sits at the top of the village, typical of so many Corsica medieval villages.
We returned to Monticello later that afternoon for a second night at La Bergerie
Curious to do your own self guided cycling tour of Corsica? Get more information from UTracks here, and check out date availability and prices.
Cycling Day 5: Monticello to Ponte Leccia
Day 5 was noted as a 55km ride from Monticello to Ponte Leccia. But due to some confusing communication with the local tour operator about where to meet for van transport in Ponte Leccia, we ended up adding another 45km to the day with a ride out to Borgo and Lucciana, for a total of 100km.
Departing Monticello, we descended into the Reginu Valley, following the Fiume di Regino river along D113, and then heading east towards Belgodere, joining D71switch backs to this village perched on the hill.
Le Regino, rail line through valley
Valley reservoir, Speloncato
Occhiatana, gentle roads through olive groves
Belgodere
Rising on its rocky spur and dominating the Reginu valley, Belgodere, translated as “beautiful pleasure”, was fortified in 1268 by the Marquis of Massa, who also established his residence there.
Although we did not visit Belgodere on our original trip, it did offer an opportunity to recreate a photo we took along the coast between Calvi and Porto, overlooking the mountains and ocean back in our 20s. A little older and wiser, still physically fit and game for adventure, but with careers, kids and mortgages added to our resume, it was fun to capture the moment in time to compare.
During the Second World War, Italian troops landed in Bastia and later arrived in Balagne to occupy Belgodere. These troops shored up defenses with blockhouses, forts, machine gun turrets and firing stations. They left less than a year later in Oct 1943, but the fortifications can still be viewed, along with a plaque that Americans placed above the village, a few hundred meters away, commemorating the defeat of the enemy troops.
The parish church in Belgodere is also classified as a historical monument.
We saw many fig trees, olive groves and orchards along the route through Speloncato and Poggiola villages.
Battaglia Pass
But the highlight of the day was climbing to the Battaglia Pass. Yes, by day 5 we were calling passes highlights! Belgodere was at 300 meters, but the road to the pass climbed steadily after that up to 700 meters. We stopped just over the top for a picnic lunch roadside, before our decent towards Ponte Leccia.
Another picnic at a pass!
Cows and goats
Road T301 then descended towards the valley, into rural farm land where we met herds of goats and cows and saw the railway line at times.
In fact, we even encountered a cow chilling in the middle of the road that I needed to dodge around. The cows calm manner certainly spoke to the lack of traffic in the area, which added to the enjoyment of the route for cycling.
Temporary Road closure
At one point we hit a temporary road closure. BMW race car drivers were practicing for the Corse Rally. They were also filming, so it was pretty entertaining to watch cars being driven at high speeds on such a narrow and twisting road. All I could think was, please don’t let a cow wander out onto the road – they might not be able to read the signs!
Race car practice, Olmi-Cappella
Ponte Leccia
We arrived at Ponte Leccia, a very important road and rail junction in Corsica, located about half way between the west and east coast of Corsica. But we were confused about the location and time for our transport pick up. Having arrived at 3:30pm to allow time for the possibility that pick up would need to be solved quickly, we elected for a plan B, to ride out to the east coast to Borgo on our own.
Ponte Leccia
Plan B to the east coast
It was a 2hr journey, mostly downhill, but a major highway, so we can appreciate why it was originally planned as a transport pick up. When we arrived in Linari, just outside Bastia and our hotel for the night, we learned that a transport driver had waited until 5pm for us in Ponte Leccia. We’re still not sure when they arrived, and we felt bad about the mix up. We assured them we had arrived and were safe, but we did suggest to the local provider that their English instructions be clearer for where and when the meet up was to be, to allow the day to be planned properly that morning.
To be fair, some of the communication break-down fell on us not receiving a message from the driver until we were back in wifi later. I think they were a little surprised that we had ridden the busy road, but both being motorcycle riders back home, we were reasonably comfortable with the challenge. Plus, by then a 100km day seemed quite doable!
Hotel La Madrague, Linari
Cycling Day 6: Loop around Lucianna
Day 6 offered options for 37km, 62km and 89km rides. Since the previous day had been a bit of an over achievement, we elected for the 62km route. Our loop around Lucciana headed in the direction of Casinca and Castagniccia.
We headed out T20 to Casamozza and up a small mountain valley road, counter clockwise on the route map. Touring through Cantone, Prunelli-di-casacconi, Bavchetta on D15, it was a gentle incline/decline quiet ride along well treed, narrow roads.
Prunelli di Casacconi
We then started a climb through Acquatella and Pianelli towards Piano, ascending from 300 meters to 800 meters.
Village of Piano
Penta Acquatella
The route went through Parc Naturel Regional de Corse
Convent of Saint Anton
A highlight was stopping at Casabianca to visit the “Conventa Saint Antone, (Convent of Saint Anton) established in 1590 in Casabianca. The old church, stone building with no roof was a memorial and burial site for families in the area. Up in the middle of what felt like back woods mountain country, with very few small towns and population close by, it was a stark reminder of the depth and history dating back to the 1500s in Corsica, and fascinating to contemplate what brought the original settlers to such a remote location to build the convent.
St Antone Convent, Casabianca
It was then a mountain decent, with some strong head winds and a light shower, through beautiful mountain towns like Silvareccio. Just out of Silvareccio is also where encountered pigs and piglets on the road. I’ve got to say that pigs are much less chill about sharing the road with a bike than cows were. Our presence scattered them into the bushes pretty quickly.
Silvareccio
Lereto-di-Casica
We stopped in Lereto-di-Casica for cappuccino and the warm up. The wind over the pass had made it cool enough to put on jackets for the first time.
Loreto de Casica
Loreto-di-Casica also is the location for an artesian well in town. After witnessing countless people fill up water jugs, we realized it was a destination for many to drive to the town for the mountain fountain water. We also realized that numerous water streams running down the road prior to arriving in town, were likely natural springs in the area.
Fountains in Loreto
The final part of our route that day was all downhill, looking out over the east coast, and Biguglia’s Pond, a barrier coastline separating it from the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bastia was in the distance.
Castagniccia
The Castagniccia region is covered with chestnut forests and is dominated by Ponte San Petrone, its highest peak at 1767 meters. The Genoas introduced chestnuts to Corsica, forcing the Corsicans to plant at least four trees per year, part of the reason why chestnuts have become so prolific on the island.
Many monasteries and convents that are sheltered in this dense forest played an important role in the Corsican independence movement in the 18th century.
We learned that this region, once rich, saw its population decline rapidly at the beginning of the 2oth century.
Orezza, Corsican sparkly mineral water, has its source in this region too. Pig farming, as we learned, is also very present in these mountains.
Biguglia’s Pond
We could view Biguglia’s Pond from our decent towards Borgo, With a length of 11km, it is the largest coastal pond in Corsica. It is located in the communities of Lucciana, Borgo, Biguglia and Furiani. The barrier coastline is less than 1km wide. The pond is a brackish (mixture of fresh water and sea water) with a salinity rate that varies from the north to the south of the lake. Eels and mules can live with it. It is classified as a nature reserve and has been designated sine 1990 as a “wetland of international importance” due to the number of migratory birds present. Depending on the season, you can see diving ducks, Hermann’s turtle, pink flamingos.
We returned to Borgo and our Hotel La Madrague for the night. It was lovely to once again have had the opportunity to leave our gear at the hotel while touring for the day. But we were glad that we brought our windbreaker raincoats, since we needed them midday. This was another element of the trip route and accommodation planning which we appreciated.
Cycling Day 7: Tour ends
We requested to be picked up for transfer back to Bastia at 12 noon, and arranged for a late check out at 11am. That allowed us to go for a quick ride out to the east coast ocean by Mariana Plage in the early morning, about 15km return from our hotel. We had really wanted to dip our toes in the Tyrrhenian Sea, since this beach area had been a first day stop out of Bastia for us 33 years ago.
Lucciana, beach on the east coast, south of Bastia
We returned to the hotel in time to change and pack up for transport of bikes and us back to Hotel Bastia.
Some guests would depart for the airport this last morning. The airport is located close by the hotel, which would make that easy. But we opted to return to Bastia for the evening, since we had an early morning ferry departure to Loverno, Italy.
Corsica island cycling Wrap up
Our self-guided cycling tour of Corsica, revealed how travel, bike touring, our bodies, and technology have changed over the last three decades, while Corsica too, had matured as a destination.
While some of the route was common with our first trip, we also saw the island through a new lens, one that explored beyond just spectacular coastal roads and switch backs, as we had previously, to also experience interior mountain villages steeped in history, desert regions, wine and olive routes, agricultural areas and wineries.
Cycle touring Cape Corse, the Gulf of Saint Florent, Desert of Agriates to the west coast, interior villages of Balagne, the Gold River Valley and Castagniccia region, added much to our experience this time.
We appreciated Corsica with a more curious, less conquering attitude than we had 33 years earlier. The journey presented a mirror to a mature relationship, one that understands that the real gems worth exploring are often found within.
Days and distances
We cycled 438km, but we figured it was closer to 450km allowing for having been lost a few times. Hey, even with an amazing app, it happens! But, getting lost temporarily is half the fun, since it rewards problem solving and independence, and often delivers an unexpected discovery.
First day: Bastia – Albo, 70km
Second day: Albo – Saint Florent, 42km
Third day: Saint Florent – Monticello, 54km
Fourth day: Loop Monticello, 95km
Fifth day: Montico – Ponte Leccia, plus ride out to Borgo, 100km
Sixth day: Loop Luccianna, 62km
Seventh day: Tour ends, bonus early morning ride to Mariana Plage and back, 15km
Similarities and differences touring over three decades later
We often mused comparing our first trip experience to this one. Over a good bottle of Corsica wine on our last evening we brainstormed this list. Here is our summary of the 25 differences and 10 similarities between cycling Corsica Island now and 33 years ago.
25 Differences
1. App for navigation. The UTracks app made self-guided route planning easy. Offering alternatives for shorter and longer trails, it also tracked our location, which made it easy to use and to re-route if lost.
2. No paper maps. Tied closely to the first observation, paper maps, even if we wanted them, were hard to find. 33 years ago, we had one paper map lacking detail.
3. Location tagging of photos. iPhone tagged photos with geographic locations and town names, making it easier to remember details later
4. E-bikes. Power assisted bikes were much easier than regular bikes, especially since we were transporting our own gear in paniers from hotel to hotel.
5. Accommodations pre-booked. On our first trip we were looking for vacancy signs at the end of the day.
The list goes on
6. Google search. Having Google to search for beaches, accommodation information, groceries and restaurants nearby, plus offer reviews was incredibly helpful. There was no internet or cell phones for this 33 years ago!
7. Guide books and travel blogs. Three decades ago you couldn’t buy a Corsica guide book even if you wanted one to learn about the island. They simply didn’t exist. Now the ability to research travel tips online and to have a guide book accompany your travel is easy.
8. Trip booking online. This time we completed our trip booking all online. The only option available for our first trip was to use a travel agent.
9. Currency and credit. This time we were spending Euros. Our first trip, prior to the European Union, Corsica used the French Franc. Credit cards and the tap function are now widely used.
10. Coastal roads were busy. What little we rode on the coast was super busy with tourist and local traffic compared to 33 years ago. Evidently road capacity had increased, as had the popularity of the island for tourists.
Cars and roads
11. Cars were newer. One of our fond memories of Corsica before was the presence of older vehicles, small rickety Renault trucks and cars in particular. This time we saw many late model luxury cars such as BMW and Peugeot
12. Improved roads overall. Major coastal roads were much wider. We found them very narrow before, often going to single lane on hair pin turns along the coast with little to no shoulder. Honestly, it’s shocking we actually survived riding the entire west coast of the island back in 1991.
13. Interior roads and variety of terrain. We stuck to the coastal roads exclusively on our first trip. Our UTracks tour of Corsica Island exposed us to much more variety. We really enjoyed the wine tour routes and olive oil routes, plus small-town villages and remote, less travelled roads.
accommodation upgrade!
14. Great accommodation. UTracks arranged accommodation at 3-Star hotels. They were all great, and often unique in their own way. On our first trip we stayed at B&Bs when we could find them, or camped a couple times since we were on a tight budget.
15. Embraced local foods. We loved the local cheeses, charcuterie meats, figs, chestnuts and olives in the region, as well as the wine culture. Commercialization of the wine industry had definitely advanced, and there just seemed to be so much more variety of local foods available this time. Our accommodations offered great dining on premises or close by. And all of them provided a hearty breakfast for our calorie intense days.
16. Motorbikes. We didn’t recall seeing any motorbikes on our first trip. This time there were quite a few. It seems the island has become a welcome destination for touring motorcyclists, coming from mainland Europe, or renting on the island. It makes sense, both of us being motor cyclists at home could certainly appreciate how the roads would be a blast to drive on a motorbike!
Get out the broom!
17. Leaf blowers. Corsican’s seem obsessed with keeping the area in front of a home or store front clear of dirt and leaves. But we noticed that leaf blowers seem to have replaced a lot of brooms.
18. Recycling and eco-consciousness. The efforts to recycle in Corsica, both cities and small towns is impressive. There were public bins to separate plastics, paper and organics. Many hotels provide heated towel drying racks instead of replacing towels daily. Disposable cups didn’t exist and wood cutlery was the norm for take-out. Personal water bottles have largely replaced disposable containers.
19. Photos on phones & shared online. We live in an era of instant gratification and instant sharing online when traveling if you want to. The ability to share the trip in real time was something not possible before. Developing those rolls of film would have to wait for the return home!
20. Emergency help one call away. Aided by cell phones and the company organizing the tour, we had a life line should an accident have occurred. We were on our own before, with no cell phones.
Just five more!
21. Route was different. While some areas we travelled were common for both trips along the coast and out of Bastia, the majority of the route was new, offering us a fresh look at the broader tapestry of Corsica’s diverse countryside.
22. Airport security. 33 years ago we carried Swiss Army knives and liquid gas for a camp stove. Not so in a post 9/11 era! We bought a knife and cork screw while there this time and continued to use then throughout our European trip, since we traveled to Italy and Croatia by ferry.
23. Wine with bottle caps. When we were last in Corsica much of the wine was bottled independently through coops and served in a bottle with a cap. Wine is now largely commercialized on the island, so corks and occasionally screw tops were the norm.
24. No need for passports between countries. There is now no requirement to show a passport traveling between countries in the EU. Previously we needed to pass a border check point, and receive a passport stamp, when leaving Corsica for Italy.
25. Older Bodies. Ok, as much as we’d like to think we are ageless, time did march on during those intervening 33 years and take its toll on youthful strength. E-bikes certainly helped. But to realize we enjoyed ourselves riding 450km through a mountainous island on a UTracks tip rated 5/5 on a difficulty scale, I’d say we nailed this aging thing.
10 Similarities
1. Corsica fierce loyalty to identity. Corsican’s cling fiercely to their identify from Corsica, rather than seeing themselves from France. This was evident in pride and insistence on being independent. They flew their own Corsica flag, and defended the local approach to law being different to France.
2. Great wine, rose in particular. We discovered Corsica’s great rose 33 years ago. At the time rose wasn’t popular in North America, and was thought to be a cheap wine alternative. It was nice to see Corsica still producing some fine rose wine. There are now nine AOC regions your can sip and taste your way through in Corsica.
3. Friendly people. We loved the people of Corsica before and nothing changed. Locals continued to embrace tourists and welcome them to their country.
We felt safe
4. Safety. We felt very safe in Corsica from crime. The local bike rental provider that UTracks worked with, called the small lock provided “the 3-minute Paris lock”, and joked how it wasn’t really necessary in Corsica because theft is rare.
5. Mostly European tourists. We encountered few North American tourists during shoulder season, although that could be different during peak season. This was similar to our first experience in Corsica. The island is still relatively unknown by many North American travelers. Tourists were mostly from mainland France or Germany in September. We heard little to no English spoken by other guests at our accommodations and restaurants, but most staff were quite fluent in English.
Just five more!
6. Carried our own bags. We transported out own paniers just like on our first trip this time. But we were able to leave some items not needed on the trip in a stored bag at the hotel in Bastia. That was convenient, since we had plans to carry on traveling to Italy and Croatia, requiring other clothing options beyond what we would need for a week cycling.
7. Dogs treated like people. Dogs are like family in Corsica. This was something we remembered witnessing before. Dogs sat patiently with owners in cafes and restaurants, and joined the family upstairs in the ferry. It was simply normal to see dogs at the feet of their owners everywhere.
8. Mausoleums. Of course mausoleums are consistent over time, since they have been there for centuries, but witnessing the active care and attention to honor the dead by family members was exactly as we remembered it.
9. No fast food. Outside the city of Bastia, there was no fast food, and even in the city it was minimal, relegated to a few international chains. Most restaurants throughout the island were independent shops. We loved that, since it felt very much like the Corsica we remembered.
10. Spoken French sounds Italian. Anyone who has ever visited Corsica will attest to the Italian influence on their French dialect. You know you are hearing French, but the delivery sounds very much like an Italian accent – at least to a foreign ear. Many place names and family names sound more Italian than French too, like Casablanca and Mussolini
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