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Most Croatia vacation visitors from North America focus their time in the Central and Southern Dalmatia regions, touring the historical cities of Split and Dubrovnik, and island hopping to Hvar, Vis, Brac or Korcula as time allows. This Croatia vacation circuit offers breathtaking natural beauty, oodles of history, interesting architecture, Adriatic Sea swimming, boating and summertime fun, plus incredible wine and seafood.
Highlights of a Northern Dalmatia Croatia vacation often include Krka National Park, Plitvice Lakes National Park, Koranati National Park, Zadar or Sibenik, but far fewer visitors venture to Pag Island – Croatia’s quiet hidden jewel, north of all the tourist traffic.
In this article, we introduce you to the less touristy charms of Pag Island, as well as a Top 13 list of things to do and explore while there.
Croatia vacation over-tourism
We found ourselves headed to Pag Island more by accident than by plan during our recent Croatia vacation in September. We had thought that travel during shoulder season might alleviate some of the tourist pressure which Croatia has received, especially in southern regions between Split and Debovnik. But after a day at Krka National Park, with one too many tourists (or perhaps make that thousands), we abandoned our original plan to go to Plitvice National Park the next day, fearing a similar experience. We needed an escape – a plan B. After some initial research, Pag Island presented as the perfect alternative.
Pag Island: a Croatia vacation discovery
Pag Island is like something from a 1950s broody black and white Italian Antonioni film set. It is barren, rocky and sepia colored, with vast, empty landscapes. It’s pretty striking when you first set eyes upon it, approaching by car.
The Adriatic is a steeling blue around Pag with karstic rock forming a moonscape defined by two mountain ranges, patches of shrubs and a dozen or so villages and hamlets. When the sky is stormy, the island is the most dramatic looking place in the whole of Croatia.
Photo: Ivan Drazik
Venturing to Pag is like visiting Hawaii’s Big Island for first time visitors, where endless lava rock might be quickly dismissed as harboring a harsh existence and defying initial attraction.
Until of course the hidden treasure beaches, coastal oasis and small town hamlets are discovered, making you want to keep it a secret forever. That was Pag for us.
Pag Island – an unlikely tourist destination
Pag Island had a history of Germans vacationing there when the territory belonged to Yugoslavia. But after the 1991-95 war which formed Croatia, interest and development grew from central Europe, bringing families from Austria, Germany, Slovenia and Czech Republic during peak season of June-August for summertime beach, boating and camping fun. To this day, Pag’s beaches and water remain among the purest in all the Adriatic.
Our host Jacqueline in Simuni, where we stayed at Olive House Apartments by the Sea had this to say about the island’s history, harshness and ultimate charm which won her over:
“My husband from Germany had vacationed in Yugoslavia since he was a kid. We met 31 years ago, so the first time he brought me here was in 1995 for a sailing vacation. As we drove down the coast, we observed damaged houses with holes in roofs. It was like going through a war zone in 1995. As we drove to the ferry which would lead to Pag Island, I saw a big stone block ahead and asked – is THAT where we are going?”
After a week sailing bay to bay she too became hooked, and the couple spent the next 15 years looking for the ideal property investment, finally resulting in their 2014 purchase of Olive House in Simuni.
Jacqueline notes, “Simuni has one of the nicest beaches in the area, and it is also the last fishing village on Pag Island. You can buy fresh fish right off the boat. All the restaurants come here to pick up fish at the port.”
Falling in love with Pag on your croatia vacation
We were fortunate to stay in the apartment with balcony overlooking Simuni harbor while at Olive House. It was the same unit that Jacqueline and Walter had stayed in when they first purchased the property, so we appreciated what it must have been like to experience their first evening overlooking the peaceful Simuni harbor at sunset. We too fell in love with the gentle pace of Simuni – watching the rhythm of boats departing and returning to the harbor morning and night, cyclists occasionally passing by from bike/boat tours docked at Madre, the next town over, and the opportunity to purchase fresh seafood from local boats, and cook it up in our own apartment – watching the sun set from our balcony.
Towns people were out and about, walking the waterfront from morning to night, but there were few tourists in September – although Jacqueline assured us that it does get busy with families during July and August summer holidays from school. Simuni’s pebble beach (aren’t they all in Croatia?) on the other side of the harbor was within easy walking distance, and seemed to go on forever, affording an easy claim to a private area that felt your own. The remnants of summer beach based beer cabanas and dining, no doubt hopping in July and August, were definitely in wind down mode by the end of September. Simuni became our base for four delightful days while exploring Pag Island, and a definite oasis from the tourist crowds we had been escaping.
Olive House Apartments by the Sea
Accessing Pag Island
Visitors access Pag Island by ferry on the northeast coast from Prizna, which makes it popular with guests from central Europe. There is also a southern access point via the Pag Bridge, built in 1968. Novalja, towards the north end of the island, is a party town and clubbing mecca in the summer, but much of the rest of the island offers ample opportunity to escape the crowds present in the Central and Southern Dalmatian coast. It is particularly quiet in the shoulder seasons, with September hitting the sweet spot for beautiful weather and few people.
If I’ve sold you on Pag Island as a quieter, less touristy Croatia vacation destination, let me introduce you to a few activities you may wish to consider while holidaying there.
What to do on your Pag Island Croatia vacation
We’ve got 13 ideas for what to do on your Croatia vacation on Pag Island.
1. Say Cheese!
Pag has a long-standing tradition of cheese making. Paski Sir (Pag cheese) is one of Croatia’s most celebrated culinary exports. The manufacturing plant in Kolan offers tours and tastings. Paski Sir is distinctly salty and sharp, with a taste easily recalling the island that makes it. As sea winds whip through the low slopes of Pag Island, a thin deposit of salt permeates the ground and flora it sprouts. The 35,000 free-range sheep of Pag Island graze freely on the salty herbs and plants, transmitting the flavor to their meat and milk.
The cheese factory in Kolan is called Gligora. They offer tours at 11am and 1pm for 10EU/person. Or if you wish to book in advance, and need transport there, check out this Pag Island cheese tour from Zadar. At the very least, be sure to purchase some Paski Sir cheese and pair it with a glass of wine from grapes grown on the island. Common grape varieties on Pag are Gegic, Trbljan and Plavina.
2. BE salty!
After you cross Pag Bridge and drive north along Pag Island, you will approach the town of Pag. The the left is a lagoon of walled off tiered fields. If you have ever seen the salt fields in Peru, you might quickly recognize this as sea salt production – harvesting salt from the ocean through evaporation. Solano Pag is the largest sea salt producer in Croatia, and its operations are based on a thousand year tradition of sea-salt production.
Solana Salt is south of the town of Pag. The shallow 225 hectare lagoon, of loam and clay, together with the ideal climate conditions of many days of sunshine, favorable winds and a clean environment, ensure that Pag salt is among the highest quality salt in Europe and the world. Solana Pag boasts that a drop of sea water equals a grain of salt. Learn more about Solana Pag and tours here. Pick up some Solana Pag salt at a local grocery store to take home, or use to spice that fresh caught fish you buy from the fisherman off his boat in Simuni!
3. Visit Pag Town
Split and Debrovnik may get all the historic attention to the south, but Pag Town earns its 14th century stripes with a side serving of salt. Historic Pag Town fringes a narrow split of land between sun scorched hills and an azure bay to the east, and the shimmering salt pans of Solano Pag to the west. In the early 15the century, the prosperous salt business prompted the construction of Pag Town.
The first cornerstone was laid in 1443 for Venetian rulers, with the main square, cathedral, and Ducal Palace at the center, and an intimate grid of narrow lanes and stone houses leading to pebble beaches close by. Be sure to also check out Stari Grad Pag (Pag Old Town) the ghostly, uninhabited remains of the deserted salt town, mostly due to droughts, when inhabitants moved to the current site of Pag Town. It’s a short walk from the center of Pag town. Check out Pag Island Old Town walking tours here.
You’ll notice as you drive the countryside in Pag, that properties are all fenced off with piled rocks. The fencing can be extensive, sometimes going for as far as the eye can see in fields. Seemingly barren land otherwise, with little apparent to be corralled, we were told farmers build rock fences to essentially clear their land and make it easier for sheep to graze.
These piled rock fences are quite fascinating because of their lack of mortar. They are just held together by strategically selected and piled rock.
4. Learn about lace
Housed in the historic Ducal Palace in Pag Town, the Pag Lace Gallery museum showcases some remarkably intricate designs. The history of lacemaking in Pag and its importance to the community is skillfully illustrated with photos and information panels. While Hvar, to the south on the Island of Hvar is perhaps best known by tourists for the lacemaking traditions in Croatia, Pag Town is the original center. You may even find a new found appreciation for your Grandma’s lace doylies.
5. Try Pag Island wines
Whether the long-established golden Zutica or the lighter Gegic grape variety, Pag wines gain their character from the sandy soil and harsh conditions they are forged from. The gegic brand was revived 15 years ago and is now served at many restaurants. Go easy on the pour though – it’s high in alcohol. Learn more about Pag Island gastronomy and winemaking here. Wine tasting from local wineries is available in Novalja and the Town of Pag. Learn how amazing wine is harvested from the harshest of conditions, cultivated with love and determination.
6. Visit the Olive Gardens of Lun
This is an off the beaten path destination and totally worthy of the effort to seek it out. Close to the northern tip of Pag island, where the road descends into the quiet village of Lun, you’ll find signed walking trails leading between the stone fences and stone houses associated with ancient olive-growing traditions. Some of the trees are up to 1600 years old, and the centuries old walls held together with not a drop of mortar bordering the olive tree fields is quite something to see.
7. Explore the beaches of Lun
After you’ve checked out 1600 year old olive trees, be sure to spend some time in the actual town of Lun. Wander along the harbor and waterfront, which borders dozens of beaches and clever little rock outposts to dip your toe in the Adriatic or enjoy a day by the water. The town of Lun lists 49 official beaches, but in addition to those that are along the town’s boardwalk area, a number of those listed beaches are on Rab Island. Rab Island is close by, but accessible only by boat. During shoulder season we found these beaches virtually empty and not busy at all. Of course you can always rent a boat (5hp or less without boaters license) out of Lun and check out Rab Island beaches too. Check Samboat.com for boat rental options on Pag, using the reference town of Lun.
8. Check out Simuni beaches and the fishing village harbor
Noted earlier in our experience staying at Olive Garden apartments by the Sea, the protected harbor of Simuni is a boater’s mecca and the last fishing village on Pag. In addition to being able to buy fish right off the boat, it’s a lovely harbor to walk around. There is a pathway all along the water, leading out to the lighthouse marker, and then along to the beaches of Simuni on the other side of the harbor. Of course you can also short cut through residential areas to access Simuni beach, one of the loveliest on the Island of Pag.
I enjoyed taking the time to sketch along Sumini harbor. Sketching forces you to slow down and notice details missed in taking a quick photo. You also become more aware of surroundings through all of your senses – beyond just visual.
Looking at this image, I can hear the rythm of the sea lapping against boat hulls. I can smell the sweet mix of salt air and marine life wafting from those boat lines. And I can feel the late day sun on the side of my face.
The beaches of Simuni seem to amble along forever. They are rocky, as are most beaches in Croatia, but comfortable for lounging.
This “proof of global warming” display at one of the beach bars made us chuckle.
We noticed that people had cleared rocks for an entry area to the sea at strategic places all along the beach, which made it easier on the feet, and also tended to keep beach areas more private – with others minding what appeared to be “your entry area.”
We absolutely loved Simuni and its beaches during our Croatia vacation. Can you tell?
9. Walk Madre coastal village waterfront, the harbor and stone beaches
The town of Madre is just up the coast from Simuni. There’s a lovely little harbor, shoreline walk and lots of stone beaches to access. Bike/boat tours tend to stop here during tourist season, so the surrounding town area is also known for its easy bike access and roads to explore on day trips.
10. Novalja beach and Zrce Beach
Pag has nightlife to rival Hvar during peak summer months, but fortunately if that’s not your thing, it can be easily avoided since it is quite concentrated in Novalja and Zrce Beach – 3km to the southest. Novalja’s thumping bars and clubs offer nightlife as raucous as you’ll find in Croata, so depending on what you’re looking for, “this could be heaven or this could be hell” in the words of the Eagles Hotel California. Nearby is Zrce Beach, with clubs and bars right on the beach. The scene vibes from June – mid September with beach umbrellas to rent by day and music events thumping by evening. Novalja has a youth hostel, which likely adds to the area being a destination for youth during peak summer season. Out of season however, later is September, you’re likely to have this otherwise lonely place to yourself.
11. Observe rare birds
If you’re a birder, Pag is your island. At the southern end of Pag, where the island stretches into a nearly deserted no-man’s-land, the reeds and marshland of Veliko Blato provide shelter for almost 150 varieties of bird life. The protected reserve has interpretive signage and observation huts. Busiest during nesting and migration seasons, endangered species such as gadwall and calandra lark might be spotted, in addition to herons, great crested grebes and spoonbills.
12. Rock climb the crags of Stogaj
Much of Pag is made up of barren, karst rock face, giving it its moon-like appearance. This has made the island a popular destination for climbers. A short drive from Novalja, at the north end of the island, along the seafront of Stogaj is the best-known climbing spot with 20 marked routes. Take lots of water and someone who knows what they’re doing if that’s not you!
Still searching for something crazy to tell your friends about, especially the ones who didn’t venture much further north than Split during their Croatia vacation? Coming in at number 13 on the list (because why wouldn’t it?) is Pag’s Bermuda Triangle.
13. Discover Pag’s Bermuda Triangle on your croatia vacation
A bizarre phenomenon was discovered in 1999 on a deserted hill off Pag’s road 106: a three-sided formation of unusual stone patterns stretching 30 meters across. Piled stone are no stranger to Pag, as anyone who has visited the island will attest. Farmers and land owners pile them along property lines, to not only delineate ownership, but to also rid the land of rocks to make what is left useful.
But the three-sided formation stone patterns off Pag’s road 106 are quite different. The discovery has attracted UFO investigators, those studying alternative forms of energy, and of course – curious tourists.
The stones differ significantly in shape and character to the millions of rocks all across the Pag landscape. How they got there is a mystery. It’s a trek to get there from the signposted turn off, so you’ll need hiking boots or sturdy trail runners, plus an intrepid sense of adventure!
Get oriented to towns and beaches on Pag
We snapped this photo of a map display in Simuni. It’s a great visual of some of the suggested destinations in this post.
Where to stay on your Pag Island Croatia vacation
We loved our stay in Simuni at Olive Garden apartments by the Sea. June, July and August are considered peak season, with part of May, September and into October (depending on weather) as shoulder. Olive Garden usually closes November – May, although Jacqueline and Walter were entertaining the possibility of doing “long stays” during the winter months in the future, so it would be worthwhile reaching out if that is something of interest. Be sure to mention Mary, the CarryOnQueen sent you! Many guests are repeat customers year to year, but multiple units are available.
Pro tip
To book Olive House (check map below – only accommodation shown in Simuni), or search here for availability directly. If you can book the harbor facing unit on the second floor with sunset balcony, or if you need more space one of the harbor facing ground floor units with their own patio. I’m sure all the other units are lovely too, but securing that sunset view is pretty special. www.olive-house.eu
There are no hotels in the town of Simuni, which is partly what makes it so special. But there are of course other accommodation options on Pag. Check out the map and options here:
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