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We initially planned to stay three nights on Hvar but extended our stay beyond a week. There were just so many fun things to do in Hvar, that we quickly realized the island deserved a deeper dive. Once beyond the hustle and bustle of Hvar Town with its party atmosphere and ample crowds, you’ll discover the heart of the island and its people, and the locations that make it charmingly unique.
Plus, despite the crushing crowds of Hvar Town during peak season or during shoulder season on days that cruise ships are anchored off port, there are ways to escape the crowds. In fact, we’ve included tips for that in our Top 16 things to do in Hvar.
1. Tour Hvar Old Town
The island’s hub and busiest destination draws around 20,000 people a day in high season. Even in shoulder season we found it busy, but particularly so on days that cruise ships had anchored off the harbor. The towns 13th-century walls surround ornamental Gothic palaces and traffic-free marble streets. Charming, unique, full of life and history, Hvar Town is a great place to do a walking tour, or check out on your own. The harbor is scenic, often sporting large yachts moored overnight, and it’s surrounded by a long seawall, that helps you get your steps in!
Link here for Hvar walking tours of Old Town, as well as Hvar Island tours.
Be sure to check out the Cathedral of St Stephens in the town square.
Crowd free tip: Visit during shoulder season – September, October. But beware many restaurants shut down as of Nov 1st. Visit sites early morning or later in the evening once cruise ship shuttle boats have returned their guests to the ship – usually for dinner. Check the cruise ship schedule and plan your day trip or excursions on “off days.”
Hvar’s restaurants and bars lining the harbor and nestled amongst the cobblestone pedestrian streets and walls of Old Town, really come to life at night.
2. Capture the views from Fortica FortRess
With a golden glow at night, and looming high above the town, this medieval castle occupies the site of an ancient Illyrian settlement dating from 500 BCE. The views over town and the Pakleni Islands are magnificent and well worth the hike up the hill.
Although you can visit during the day, we recommend going up later in the afternoon or early evening and staying for sunset. Golden hour and sunset will secure you the best photos.
Crowd free tip: Visit early morning or later in the evening to avoid the bulk of tour groups and cruise ship traffic. If you go early evening the bonus will be the ability to catch the sunset from the Fortress, which is spectacular. The climb up is an unrelenting switch back which self-selects fit and energetic guests, which could introduce a bias away from older cruise ship guests. But don’t count on it. There’s also a road up back which taxis can access!
3. Island hop to Paklini Islands
If hiking out to a beach is not your thing, you can grab a taxi boat to the Pakleni Islands. There are taxi boat lines that service Jerolim, Stipanska, Zdrilca, Mlini, Palmizana-Vinogradisce and Vladka. Of those, Mlini is one of the nicest, and closest. We visited Palmizana on the return of our day boat trip to Vis. It was beautiful but busy, and definitely a destination for the expensive yacht crowd.
You can access water taxis to the islands along Hvar’s harbor. Operators display signs with prices and crossing schedules for various routes and islands. You’re best to check these out when you arrive for planning. Booking in advance is not really recommended since weather may alter your plans, and since there are multiple operators available, you’ll no doubt have options on site.
Crowd free tip: In the summer avoiding crowds on these island hoppers in a challenge. But the go early adage still applies. And if you’ve had enough of the richy-rich yachty crowd along the harbor in Hvar, give Palmizana a miss.
4. Visit Pokonji Dol beach
A 30 minute walk south and then east from the town center of Hvar will bring you to the largest of the pebbly beaches. The beach is accessed by a footpath over the hill from a residential area in Hvar, or by the seawall road Ivana Vuvetica. Limited parking is available just south of the beach. During peak season, a taxi boat line also services this beach. As you’re walking along the road be sure to eye up a few of the public access walkways down to rocky swimming and sunning areas, which could be an alternative to the beach on busy days.
Crowd free tip: Easy access by car means this beach can get crowded. If you can, avoid weekends. Go shoulder season. Arrive early and escape once the crowds build. Or go for a drink. There’s a chill place on the beach to nurse a cold one.
5. Discover Mekicevica Beach
If you’re in search of a more secluded beach, keep hiking past Pokonji Dol for 25 minutes via a scenic rocky path to Mekicevica. This beach is hike in only, making it much less busy. You might even have it to yourself during shoulder season. Bear in mind though, during peak season a taxi boat line also services this beach. And we did see a sign promoting beach chair rentals – so no doubt the traffic heats up here too during peak summer months!
Beach location noted by green dot on map below.
Many beaches in Croatia are smooth rock or pebble and Mekicevica is no exception. Don’t forget your water shoes or sandals.
Along the way there’s also a casual beach restaurant nestled up in the olive trees overlooking the sea, called Pacha Mama. www.pachamamabeach.com Their website home page has a great drone view of the area.
Crowd free tip: Because this beach is harder to access by hike in only, it attracts those who are fit or youthful. Go earlier in the day since this crowd doesn’t always hit the beach until noon. Shoulder season is awesome and not crowded at all here.
6. Party and experience the nightlife in Hvar Town
Many young people, and those young at heart, come to Hvar to party and not much else. So do the rich and famous from across the world, sometimes arriving on their luxury yachts moored in the harbor. Hvar is a town that seldom sleeps between June – September, with its many bars and nightclubs to choose from.
Even if a fist pumping dance floor isn’t your thing, wandering through old town streets at night into the early morning hours with friends on a pub crawl, can be a really fun way to experience nightlife in Hvar.
Crowd free tip: Being in a crowd is part of the experience, so you likely don’t want to deny yourself this – in fact the crowd is what makes it fun. Adjust your attitude, go with the flow. But if you like a more peaceful existence for bar hopping on your own during shoulder season, go higher up the hill in Old Town. Fewer people climb the cobblestone stairs to get there.
If you’re really into the party scene, be sure to check out the infamous Hula Hula bar along Hvar’s waterfront. Apparently the drinks are “Vegas style doubles” that pack a punch, according to our guest host Tao, familiar with the hospitality industry in town!
7. Boat tour for the day to Vis and visit the Blue Cave
We chartered a boat with friends for the day to visit the Island of Vis, and toured the Green Cave. Something to be mindful of if you want to see the Blue Cave is that you need to go with a licensed operator. A cave entrance fee applies, and guest numbers are limited to 12 per boat. Strong winds, particularly those from the south, prevent boats from entering the Blue Cave, so you may want to be flexible with your plans.
The Adriatic sea within the cave is unbelievably blue. It’s almost surreal.
Vis
The island of Vis was a Yugoslavia army base, which meant that foreign visitors were not permitted up until 1989. The isolation preserved the island from development, but that also became its draw as a tourist destination for people seeking authenticity and quiet. The isolated vibe is long gone, but the island is still beautiful and an attraction for ABBA fans, since “Momma Mia Here We Go Again” was filmed on the island in 2017. Stiniva beach is Vis’ picture perfect sheltered cove and white pebble rock beach. A Unesco World Heritage Site, it is accessible only by boat, or hiking down a steep hill if staying on the island.
Link here to learn more about private boat tours from Hvar.
Crowd free tip: When you charter a boat for the day, the captain in theory will take you wherever you want to go. That said, most have an agenda they are comfortable with, and they may even have a kick back deal going to a restaurant they recommend. If you don’t wish to be taken to a busy island harbor and expensive restaurant, say so. That extra time and expense could be channeled into spending more time at a quiet beach at anchor, or exploring ashore longer if you wish. If it’s not an organized group tour, and genuinely your own private charter, differ to the captain for safety and weather recommendations, but beyond that, remember that it is your cruise. They will honor that.
8. Hike around the crumbling remains of Malo Gradlje
Malo Grablje is a beautiful, abandoned ghost-like village. The people living in the village were winemakers and olive growers who left the village in 1960 when a vine disease wiped out much of their grape crops. It is an outstanding example of Mediterranean rural settlement.
Surrounded by agriculture plots, vineyards and olive groves, the first mention of Malo Grablje was in 1539. The settlement had a grist to grind grapes and olives, a school, town well, cistern and church and a community oven.
When the community was abandoned in 1960, many gravitated to the fishing village of Milna out on the coast. It’s a really cool experience exploring the remains of the town slowly being reclaimed by nature, after thriving for centuries. Be sure to check out the olive oil and wine grape grinder.
During shoulder season you’re likely to encounter few if any other visitors, making it almost a voyeur experience examining the remnants of a previously vibrant community.
After exploring the town up in the valley, we walked back to Milna and followed the coastal trail path along the ocean all the way back to Hvar – with stops at secluded beaches along the way. It was a fabulous day exploring.
Hitchhiking from Hvar to Milna seemed very safe, and we got a ride within five minutes. Some cars passing us pointing apologetically that they were turning off soon.
Crowd free tip: This is not a busy attraction during should season at all. We could see evidence that it might be busier during peak season though, since there was a small restaurant in the town that had closed during shoulder season. So the old come early tactic would apply.
9. Visit Milna and hike back along coastal trail
Milna is a 20 minute bus ride out of town from Hvar, an hours walk along the highway (not recommended if it’s hot), or an easy hitch hike – which is what we did, as noted above. We learned that locals are quite open to picking up people looking for a lift.
Our ride Celia, was gracious, friendly and more than happy to share stories and history about the island with us. She was a restaurant owner in Hvar, and made space for us amidst her work supplies and toddler seat in the backseat (minus toddler at the time!)
We combined the trip to Milna with a visit to Malo Gradje (see above) and a coastal hike back to Hvar by the sea.
This photo shows the town of Milna in the background and where Malo Gradlje is located in the far valley, noted by the arrow – taken from the coastal trail walk back towards Hvar.
Crowd free tip: The fact you are willing to hike/walk 10-15km likely weeds out most of the crowd, and the ones left will probably be friendly, possibly local, and appreciative of your desire to experience nature. We did however notice, having hiked this trail twice during our stay, that windy days had fewer people. If you don’t mind a little wind, and frankly it’s nice to keep you cool, this might be a good tactic to keep the trail to yourself.
This photo is along the coastal trail back to Hvar from Milna.
10. Rent a scooter and tour Hvar Island
You can rent a 50cc scooter with a regular class 5 car license in Croatia. This will allow you to do some touring on the island, but will limit you to smaller secondary roads closer to Hvar. If you have a motorcycle class 6 license, you can rent a 200cc scooter, capable of traveling all the roads, highways and tunnels on the island.
Since we were both motorbike riders at home, being able to tour the entire island by scooter was fantastic. We got a much better appreciation of all the little villages, quiet beaches, typography and beautiful scenery – especially along the coastal roads, through switch backs, and the decent back into Hvar Town
There are lots of places to rent scooters on Hvar. We rented from the place close to The Shaka Hostel. But there is also an outfit just off D116, before the switchback corner heading out of town. That place also rents quad 4x4s, but they’re noisy and more fun for the person driving than the passenger – in my opinion!
Crowd free tip: By far more people rent 50cc scooters than bigger bikes. That means that the range of the less powerful scooters will limit them to closer to Hvar Town. If you’re licensed for it, rent a 200cc scooter to get out on the back roads of the island. The next best tactic would be to stay clear of weekends and peak season.
11. Rent an e-bike on Hvar Island
If scooters aren’t your thing, perhaps renting an e-bike would be a better choice. E-bikes can be rented by the day and give you the opportunity to see a lot of the island. We met people touring from Hvar Town to Stari Grad and Jelsa. You’ll be limited to roads without tunnels, but there are still other options that accommodate bikes. Check out rental options, self-guided and private e-bike tours here.
Crowd free tip: One thing to be mindful of is that Hvar Island is a popular summer holiday and camping destination in the peak seasons overlapping with European July/August school break. During those times, roads might be busier, with larger vehicles and campers, since there are numerous camping destinations further south on the island – something to consider while riding a bike. These vehicles would be departing from Stari Grad, and the ferry coming over to Hvar from Split, primarily – something to consider for route planning. Roads tend to not have large shoulders on Hvar, but the pavement is decent for riding.
12. Explore Stari Grad
Stari Grad literally means “Old Town.” Think of Stari Grad as is the more cultured and quieter version of Hvar Town. But it is also Croatia’s oldest town, having been founded in 384 BC by ancient Greeks. Shops, restaurants and cafes line its palm fringed promenade. Get lost in the towns narrow cobblestone streets viewing stone homes built in the 16th and 17th centuries. The town has deep narrow lanes, old town quarters, a monestary founded in 1482 and St Stevens church built in 1605.
The Stari Grad plain, just out of town is a Unesco protected area. The system of rock fence field division by the ancient Greeks is still preserved, where much of the grapes for Hvar wine are grown.
Crowd free tip: Check the cruise ship schedule and try to visit on days when there are no ships in port offering day trips to Stari Grad and Jelsa. The next best tip is tour in shoulder season, or visit earlier in the day before tour groups arrive.
13. Visit Jelsa & combine it with a wine tour
Jelsa is a small harbor town, surrounded by thick pine forests. It lacks the Renaissance buildings of Hvar Town, but is a pleasant place to wander the waterfront. However it also houses the island’s most famous winery – Tomic, where wine tasting tours often begin.
Crowd free tip: See above re: bus tours and cruise ships. The usual avoid weekends, go in shoulder season apply here.
14. Tour the island’s vineyards
Hvar has a winemaking tradition dating back 2500 years when vines were brought to the island by the Greeks. The oldest vineyards are located on the Stari Grad Plain. Croatian wines are world class, and many come from the island of Hvar.
Tomic is a family run winery, located in the small town of Jelsa. It makes a great place to start you wine tour. Hvar’s indigenous grapes include Plavac Mali and Posip.
There are also options for Hvar Island e-bike tour with wine tasting, which might be a fun day trip option to combine two activities in one. Check them out here.
Photo: Brett Jordan, Pexels.com
Crowd free tip: One of the best tips I ever received for wine tasting was to go in the morning. It seems counter intuitive for wine tasting, but if you can wrap your brain (and pallet) around it, this is a great way to have a more intimate experience. Not all wineries will do this, but some of the busier ones offer it. Check tour bus and cruise ship schedules and try to avoid overlap.
15. Drive the Pitve Tunnel
This old Yugoslavia Army tunnel is something to be experienced! Located just outside the small town of Plitve, this tunnel has no lights, it’s 2.3 meters wide and 2.7 meters high, limiting it to single land alternating traffic. It is also quite long – 1.4km, so when you enter you don’t immediately see light on the other end of the tunnel.
Fun fact: prior to a red light/green light system being installed, drivers would just watch for oncoming headlights, and if there was nothing, they would enter!
Riding through it on bikes or a 50cc scooter is prohibited. But motorcycles and cars are ok, and a 200cc scooter is the same power as a motorcycle, plus it requires a class 6 license, so we interpreted that as good to go.
Being reprimanded in German!
We did however have a German lady roll down her car window and reprimand us on the other side. We’re pretty sure she didn’t know the difference between a 50cc scooter and 200cc scooter/motorbike, but when you’re told off in a language you don’t understand, you somehow still get the message! Other locals were supportive though, offering a congratulatory wave at us on the other side though.
Crowd free tip: The Pitve Tunnel is certainly a crowd pleaser, but actually has little potential for crowds to access. The tunnel will not accommodate a tour bus, and transportation to the little town of Ptive, where the tunnel is located is limited unless you have a rental car (or 200cc scooter!) By default, this experience is a self-selected one which is likely to eliminate anyone who is claustrophobic, a driver lacking confidence, or those without a vehicle to access.
We got a tip about this cool tunnel from a local while hiking the coastal trail. I marked up a map screen save as he provided tips for our upcoming scooter rental touring day.
16. Marvel at Hvar’s lavender fields
We were unable to view the lavender fields in bloom since we were visiting in September. But we could certainly appreciate the magnitude of a beautiful blue bloom going on forever on the rolling hills for Hvar during June or July. There is a mid-July festival that celebrates all things lavender on the island too. Hvar’s lavender history and its importance to commerce on the island is extensive. Our Hvar accommodation host Tao and his family made their fortune on lavender and olive oil just out of Milna. Tours are often offered during the June/July bloom season.
Crowd free tip: Since we were not on the island during the bloom in June/July it’s hard to speak to how crowded this experience would be. However, I would suspect tour groups would flock to it, so viewing the fields early in the day, or later with your own vehicle would likely be a tactic to keep crowds at bay.
Things to do in Hvar – taking time to sketch and notice details
I enjoy taking the time to sketch when traveling. This one was created sitting along the Hvar harbor looking up towards the Fortress.
Sketching forces you to slow down and notice details missed in taking a quick photo, which I love! You also become more aware of surroundings through all of your senses – beyond just visual.
This sketch brings back the scent of palms mixed with sweet salt air, and the feeling of the sun on my shoulders, still intense in late September.
I also love how the vulnerability of sketching invites people to stop and engage a conversation – something we often do less of, in a society obsessed with scrolling social media on cell phones.
For reference – the photo I captured once done!
Getting to Hvar
There are multiple ferries daily to Hvar. Some are car ferries and some are passenger only catamaran ferries. Know that the catamaran ferries are faster, and the only ones that drop foot passengers right in Hvar Town. The distance from Split to Hvar is 36km and takes about an hour on the catamaran ferry. While foot passengers can take car ferries, the arrival port on Hvar Island is Stari Grad.
There are three catamaran companies servicing the Split-Hvar route: TP-Line, Krilo and Jadrolinija. During high season there are around 20 daily crossings combined. During low season that goes down to 2-3 sailings per day. You can purchase tickets at the ferry terminal in Split direct, the day before or on the day of sailing. Return tickets can be bought at a harbor kiosk in Hvar. Or you can book online using FerryHopper.com website or app. Here’s a link for Split-Hvar.
Where to stay
We stayed away from all bustle of Hvar Old Town, just up the hill. It was a short 5-7 minute walk into town. It afforded a nice view of the harbor, a quiet location, but easy and quick access to restaurant and nightlife in town.
Friends of ours stayed right within the old walls of Old Town and loved the historical ambiance. We did too while visiting them one evening. It’s not every day you get to look out and almost touch a wall from the 13th century from your patio overlooking the harbor. Other friends stayed further east of the downtown harbor area, and loved it for the proximity to the sea for swimming. They did however admit to getting their steps in, coming into town for dinner meet ups in the evening! It really comes down to what you’re looking for, and of course willing to pay.
Here’s a map to visualize options in relation to Hvar Old Town, the harbor and attractions. Apartment Tao, where we stayed is referenced on the map with the blue dot.
Tao, our accommodation host was a great guy, long time resident of Hvar, and full of endless stories about local history and Croatia. Book accommodation through Expedia or Booking.com here – search by Apartment Tao in Hvar.
More posts about Croatia
Check out these additional articles to help you plan your Croatia holiday.
- Croatia vacation: enjoy the less touristy charms of Pag Island
- Croatia Waterfalls: how to avoid the crowds at Krka National Park and Plitvice Lakes National Park
- Things to do in Croatia
Helpful maps
These maps are a little marked up with our notes, as well as some helpful suggestions from Tao, our host. But they provide geographic context for some of the sites, towns and attractions noted in this article.
Hvar Town
Hvar Town Center
Pakleni Islands
The Island of Hvar
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