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We’re in Lillooet for a Mom and daughter road trip, driving a Roadsurfer Sprinter RV, our home on four wheels for a girl’s glamping weekend. The accommodation upgrade is a far cry from tent camping on a yoga mat in the Dolomites, one of the last times we camped together. Our Roadsurfer offers a comfortable bed, kitchen and bathroom, but we stop short of utilizing the TV and air conditioning. Outdoorsy girls do have limits.
The drive to Lillooet
Our 4 hour drive from Vancouver up the Sea to Sky highway to Lillooet offers stunning ocean fjords and a backdrop of snow-capped mountains as the highway clings to a rockface, worthy of an engineer’s ring. It’s a familiar drive to Squamish and Whistler for locals like us, but we still marvel at the beauty in our own back yard, knowing visitors from around the globe flock here annually.
North of Whistler we hit Pemberton, and the beginning of the Duffy Lake Road section, navigating elevation grades up to 13.7%, plus enough twists and turns to make the drive worthy of a cliff hanger movie. It’s a well-used narrow road by RV campers, who travel a circle route to Lillooet via the coast and return through the interior via Lynton, Hope and Chilliwack back to Vancouver. We’re happy to have the maneuverability of the Sprinter RV on the challenging drive. And even more thrilled to be taking the coastal route on the return, knowing the views traveling back to Vancouver are uniquely stunning in both directions.
Sea to Sky Highway
Green Lake, Whistler
Whistler Mountain
North of Pemberton on way to Lillooet
After many photo worthy stops, we arrive in Lillooet. It’s a town at the end of the road, where coastal mountains surrender to the parched interior ranges, with a valley cut by the Fraser River.
Lillooet history
The sound track and conversation complement our quest for stories and undiscovered treasures. Our first stop is the Lillooet Museum, 790 Main Street, for some research into the area.
Lillooet experienced a gold rush in 1856, where the town surged to 16,000, rendering it the largest population north of San Francisco. There was another goldrush in 1884 when Chinese workers, employed for the CPR rail project, discovered gold in Cayoosh Creek – an area perviously overlooked. Their efforts yielded $1 million per mile according to records at the Lillooet Museum.
“While heading to the Klondike from Wisconsin in 1896, my grandpa got a good sized nugget and staked his claim – $10 for 160 acres” notes Karen Vanderwolf. We’re introduced to Karen and her husband George by Betty Lou Cahoon at the historical society. George is a well-known gold prospector who established the first jade mine in BC during the 1960s.
Panning for gold in Lillooet
Stories of gold nugget discoveries breed hope, so we try panning for gold where the Seton River meets the Fraser while staying at Cayoosh Creek Campground, one of three recreational panning reserves in Lillooet.
Failing to strike it rich panning the river, we’re still grateful for the cooling water in contrast to Lillooet’s hot summer weather conditions. Our long weekend activities also include visiting a couple wineries, a new micro-brewery, and tackling numerous hikes in the area.
Fort Berens wine tasting
Our Roadsurfer Sprinter RV allows us to switch seamlessly to summer dresses in the parking lot, emerging glamorously to the lush valley vineyards for our first wine tasting at Fort Berens.
Co-founded by Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek, and based on a vision shaped in France, they realized their dream in 2009, establishing the winery in the Lillooet valley amidst mountains, farms and creeks.
Fort Berens offers daily drop in tastings, featuring ten wines. The last several years have been challenging for BC wine producers with wildfire smoke and cold weather events threatening the viability of vines. But Lillooet, being less susceptible to smoke with coastal Squamish winds, and having the hottest temperatures in Canada, has an advantage over the Okanagan.
Sampling notes
We sample a fresh bright Pino Gris, a dry Riesling and an oak barreled Riesling to start. Then it’s on to Blanc de Blanc made from Chardonnay with added sugar and fermentation to render a bubbly festive wine. New this year is the Vineyard Cider Rose, made from 90% apples. With temperatures that dipped to -25c, limiting production to 20%, cider was added – a lovely, not too sweet 7% summer sipper.
Next up is the 100% barreled Chardonnay, what the winery is recognized for, with its apricot, peach and pear almond nuttiness. We switch to a Merlot, and then Meritage – their most popular and largest batch red at 1200 cases annually. Finishing off with a smoky Cabernet Franc that promises to age well over 20 years, and the Red Gold, their most robust red wine – a merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc combo, limited to 150 cases annually, we experience the depth of this emerging winery.
Cliff and Gorge wine tasting
The next morning we’re off to Cliff and Gorge, Lillooet’s second winery, established by Eckhard Zeidler in 2019. Promising “a wine adventure,” we book a tasting in advance, offering a 1:1 conversation with the vintner, while sampling half bottles outdoors under the shade of mature trees by the vineyard. At Eckhard’s suggestion, we pack a picnic, and do the Gorge Rim walk, spending three unrushed hours enjoying the property. It’s a unique experience, that drives word of mouth, referrals and local sales for this small winery.
But it’s the pure approach to wine making that makes Cliff and Gorge stand out. “I make a clean wine that sells out every year,” notes Eckard. Much smaller than Fort Berens, Cliff and Gorge produces from vines the result of interspecific crossing, creating hybrids that are fungus resistant. An additional outcome, which has garnered interest from some big Okanagan wineries, is the robust vine’s resilience to extreme cold.
Climate extreme resistant vines
Since buying the 165 acre property in 2009, Eckhard has experimented with breeding modern varieties, working with Valentin Blattner, a Swiss grape geneticist and winemaker in Europe, where they are 30 years ahead researching plants resistant to climate extremes. Originally an investment banker in Europe, when he returned to Canada, he built a winery on Salt Spring Island. But he quickly recognized the superior growing conditions and vines resistant to mildew at predictable 41c heat, in Lillooet.
Traditionally Cliff and Gorge has offered six wines in their tasting, but in 2024, a year challenged by weather, they are offering three. German inspired, Land Wine style, they have created a white, rose and red from grape blends. Pure, not oaked, and a product of the land, philosophy and practices, “I like to think it tastes alive,” Eckhard boasts.
As if the Lillooet grown, PIWI European organic certified wine at just $17, and the exclusive hosted experience couldn’t get any better, the beautiful gorge walk hike with Traik, Eckard’s friendly black lab, topped off the day.
Hiking in Lillooet
Wine is reason enough to justify a trip to Lillooet, but the area also has great hikes. We did the Bridges Walk by the Old Suspension Bridge one afternoon, and Seton Lake trail the day we arrived, grabbing a swim in the lake, before checking into Cayoosh Creek campground in town.
Red Rock hike
Red Rock hike, an out and back trail is known as “the Lillooet Grind” since it’s more up and down than out and back. Expect to get your heart pumping on this 4 mile signature hike, offering outstanding views and an excuse to visit the Lillooet Brewing patio, as a reward for this 3hr challenging hike.
Take lots of water, since much of the trail is exposed to sun. This hike is best done before the late afternoon heat renders it truly a grind.
Lillooet Brewing
Lillooet Brewing is the first and only craft brewery in Lillooet. Be sure to try a sampler flight of hand crafted brews that capture the spirit of this rugged and remote BC town.
Japanese history in Lillooet
Other sites worthy of a stop are Miyazaki House museum, formerly owned by Dr. Miyazaki, a local Japanese doctor. The Miyazaki House, plus a visit to the Lillooet Museum, as well as the East Lillooet Memorial Garden, tell the story of four Japanese Canadian internment camps located in the area 1942-1949. It’s a sobering piece of Canadian history, where 20,000 Japanese Canadians were forcibly removed, following Canada’s declaration of war against Japan in 1942. Curiously it was the team sport of baseball that brought the town inhabitants back together after 1949, a fact we learned will chatting to Betty Lou at the Lillooet Museum and Historical Society.
East Lillooet Japanese internment camp – map by family name above. Settlement photo below. Photos courtesy of Betty Lou Cahoon, Lillooet Museum.
A dark piece of WWII history, a rush for riches that rivaled the Yukon Klondike gold rush, two of the best kept secret wineries in BC, fabulous scenery, hiking and great camping – are all what make visiting this small town of 2,300 worthy. You’ll love Lillooet and the stunning road trip getting there.
Rent a Roadsurfer RV!
Our trip was made possible by Roadsurfer. We loved the glamping style accommodation it provided, while also being very easy to drive for someone with a regular class 5 license. If you’re familiar with driving a van or SUV, the Roadsurfer Springer RV will be a breeze. In addition to all the great amenities provided for comfort, our van also had a back-up camera with multiple angles displayed on the dash, plus a camera view rear view mirror and large side mirrors, making it easy to handle and maneuver.
The power, water and waste systems were easy to learn, especially with the video tutorial and online checkout prior to pick up. Roadsurfer was established in Germany, but is now across Europe and parts of southern USA, including California. The company opened in Canada with offices in Vancouver and Calgary spring 2024. One way rentals from Vancouver to Calgary or the reverse are also possible, making the RV a great option for a road trip through the Canadian Rockies as well. Visit www.roadsurfer.com to learn more. Be sure to tell them that you read about it on CarryOnQueen.com!
Camping in Lillooet
There are a couple options for paid camping in Lillooet with private campsites. It is also possible to camp at BC parks, but you’ll need to reserve ahead. The following are some sources to help plan your trip.
Cayoosh Creek Campground
We stayed at Cayoosh Creek Campground. The campground is easily accessible from town, located right where the Seton River meets the Fraser River. 30A and 50A powered sites are available for RV campers, but there is also a tent camping area. The bathroom and shower facility is clean and conveniently located within easy walking distance of camp sites. It’s best to reserve ahead https://www.cayooshcreekcampground.com/
Texas Creek Campground
Texas Creek offers both tent and RV camping. Located just out of town, before you arrive in Lillooet when driving up from Vancouver, it’s a nice alternative with a more forested feel.
Hipcamp
Hipcamp.com enables you to search alternative campsites by area, sometimes including unique RV and tenting sites hosted on private property, as well as glamping options.
Visit Lillooet directory
https://visitlillooet.ca/directory/accommodation/rv-campgrounds offers an additional listing of RV campground options, including Provincial Park options in the area.
If camping isn’t your thing, you can find alternative accommodation options in the area on Booking.com or Expedia.
Or if motorbiking is more your style, be sure to check out this post, “Motorbiking the Sea to Sky Highway Vancouver to Whistler” for more photos of the area, driving tips, a video and accommodation option map along the way if you choose to stay in Squamish or Whistler on your way to Lillooet.